Matt Kuehl Blogs

Keepin' On

2012-02-17T11:24:00.000-08:00

Jason's van and a sunset over Red Rocks.

This last week here in Red Rocks has been all over the board. The transition from 70's and sunny to a confused sporadic rain/snow/wind combo was a little difficult, but realistically not something entirely uncommon for the area. Despite the approaching clouds we went out to climb several days, but often came home with little more to say than "well that was a nice hike" and "light rain can be very relaxing". Our climbing days were often cut short, or entirely stopped due to rain or heavy winds. So in these odd days of climbing we would get a pitch in here or there, while mostly just hiking around looking for some new cool looking cracks to climb. Andy spotted a fun looking corner crack that traversed under a roof while hiking through Gateway Canyon, which is home to the wild "Dr. Seuss" stone on the North side of Kraft mountain. Although a little short, this crack looked like one of the best we've spotted in Gateway Canyon thus far. Way better than the last crack I spotted in the same area, which looked great but turned out to be the ridiculously sandy and short. Luckily for us the crack Andy saw actually continued to look good as we approached, and once we reached the base we knew we had to give it a try.

Andy Hansen on Horizontal Departure 5.10b

Seeing as Andy spotted the line, it was only natural he would get the first attempt at it. So as Andy started to climb with Gina as his belayer, I walked around and looked for a good place to shoot a few photos from. The crack seemed to start like many of the less trafficed lines in the Calico Basin area, slightly broken up and fragile in the beginning, but gets progressively better as you go higher up, I suppose an unfortunate reality to climbing on shorter bands of Aztec sandstone in the wind blown desert. Once he got about ten feet up the rock and climbing looked much better, and it looked like a fun and committing little line. Once under the roof, you get a few good foot holds before they all disappear, causing you to smear your feet on slick varnished stone, looking for any small feature to get a little extra friction. Andy made it through the traverse and pulled up over the lip, where another five feet of climbing leads to the belay. I followed him up on the climb and cleaned the gear as I went. As we were scrambling back down to the base we discussed the difficult of the route and came to an agreement of 5.10. Although unaware if this route was in the guidebook or not, we could tell that it had certainly been done previously. The approach trail had many cairns and was relatively well travelled, despite the relatively unpopular nature of the climb. Once we got home Andy checked out the guidebook and we discovered that the line was in fact Horizontal Departure. Slightly disappointed, but not surprised that this line was already established we looked in the book for other fun climbs near by. Luckily for me the climb just to the left of it was another unpopular offwidth called Harsh Width.

Me climbing Harsh Width 5.9+

I can barely begin to describe my enjoyment of climbing Harsh Width that day. I don't know if it was the weird weather, the lack of water, or perhaps an excitement for climbing obscure climbs, but as soon as I wedged my body into the stone I felt at home. There is just something wonderful about getting to interact with a large crack in an even larger piece of earth, the whole time making upwards progress and getting to temporarily exist in places that people seem to dread. It is an exhilarating process that most people don't seem to get into, perhaps because of the mandatory cuts and bruises, or the generally non-glamorous nature of getting half stuck inside a crack. But the more I climb these cracks the more my skills advance and the less painful and arduous they become, and I think perhaps I realized this when I was climbing that day. As far as the details of the climb itself, the two walls which made the Harsh Width crack featured one varnished wall with great rock and some cool pockets, and another wall with more friction and slightly worse rock, although hardly anything broke off. It climbs for about 50-60 feet and is very continuous in nature, not very many face holds exist to help avoid using the crack. There is a good ledge after the sustained crack climbing is finished, and after belaying your second up you both get to scramble/squeeze up a really fun low angle chimney to exit the climb and scramble back down to the base. If you're looking to climb more off width squeezes and have already done most of the ones people talk about, I'd recommend this climb without a doubt.

Me on Sport Wanker Extraodinaire 5.11d

A few days before the weather turned on us, I got an opportunity to get on the infamous Sport Wanker Extraodinaire 5.11d. This climb has been on my radar for a bit now, but I needed to wait for just the right time to attempt it. The first (and only) other attempt I've seen or heard about this climb is when I watched Andy attempt it a few months ago. We had gone to get on Yin and Yang and Atman, two classics in the area and afterwards Andy wanted to try Sport Wanker. It was all fun and games for a while as Andy worked the lower hand stack section while Jason and I watched on giving whatever advice we could. It was fun to watch Andy work out the moves, but things got drastically less fun in just a matter of moments. After working out the hand-stack section, Andy was pulling over the roof and advancing above his last gear placement. While above his gear and with a bomber hand jam in place, Andy's feet slipped unexpectedly and he took a fall onto his (still jammed) hand and arm! Needless to say watching my good buddy fall onto his stuck arm was not the best inspiration. But perhaps watching him finish the route after that fall was a little more motivating. So I gave it my first attempts, figuring out the steep hand stacks and trying not to slip out of the wide crack. For me the crux was attempting to place my third piece of gear, a #4 Camalot in the hand-stack section. Unfortunately by the time I had the stacks dialed in, my skin was already pretty thrashed, and I decided to let myself heal and come back. I look forward to my second attempt on this monstrosity, and perhaps Andy and I can both get sends the next time we go for it.

Apartment Bouldering

2012-02-10T11:56:00.000-08:00

A look back at a video I made while living in Wisconsin a few years ago. What can I say? When you spot a good line, you've just got to give it a go! This was a "self portrait" climbing video I filmed using a tripod and many shots all edited together. The line could pretty easily be done without having to stop at all and I'd rate it around V1 at the hardest. Just a little trip down memory lane. Anyone else do anything like this when they're bored? The song is "Sweet Road" by Animal Collective.

The "Shark Attack" Roof Project

2012-02-07T22:22:00.000-08:00

Starting our day working the "Shark Attack" roof.

It was probably my first visit to Calico Basin when I noticed the huge impressive roof gashed out of the side of Kraft Mountain. How could you miss it!? The intimidating roof is probably one of most obvious features on the mountain, and it looks big even from the parking lot. Needless to say this thing looked like a bold line destined for an ascent, and I was curious to investigate. For a while every time I went to the Kraft area I would find myself starring at it daydreaming the impossible and mysterious ways it might be climbed. How wide does it get? Can you tunnel through? Is it an off-width roof traverse? Do you have to go inverted? Will there be any bats? Is it even possible? Maybe it's a space portal into another dimension? A million questions ran through my head, and most of the answers I made up were pretty exciting. So about a week ago Jason, Ken and I hiked up to the base of the climb one more time, doing our best to look inside to evaluate what kind of gear it would take. The excitement grew, the rock was discussed, and the route was planned. It was soon decided the next time we came back to the roof that we'd attempt to get an ascent.

The roof from the trail.

The first pitch looked a little broken up. The crack running up to the base of the roof looked pretty good, but the stone around it was questionable. There was no doubt we were going to knock off loose rock, but how much and where would it land? There was even a pretty good chance what you were holding onto could easily rip off the wall, and even some of the gear had a possibility of ripping. On an attempt like this there are no bolts, no chalk marks, no route description, no beta and no guarantees... once we left the ground it is full on rock climbing. This climb is certainly more committing and serious than the average climb, there is a lot more that goes into the process. One has to consider how they protect the climb, how and where to set up anchors, and how will you get off the climb or what if you have to bail? A lot more gear is needed when you're not sure what you're getting into, and it shouldn't be a surprise if some of the gear gets left in the rock for temporary fixed anchors. To top it off we brought a lot of wide gear to protect the huge gash above, requiring us to haul a bag full of gear and supplies to the base of the roof. Our rack consisted of a single rack from #00 C3 - #4 C4 with double #5 and #6, #3, #4 and #5 Big Bro, micro nuts, 10+ slings and a bunch of cordalette and webbing for potential rap stations or belays. A hefty load in addition to the standard water, food. camera and tons of psych.

Getting the first close view under the roof from the pitch 1 anchor.

So I carefully climbed the first pitch, paying extra caution as to not hold or stand on any rock of extremely poor quality. I was placing more gear than I normally would, but with questionable rock quality I didn't want to take a risk if I were to fall. I took the path of least resistance up the wall, and the climbing felt no harder than 5.8, with a slightly harder crack portion that would make it around 5.9. After about 50' of climbing, a slight ledge is reach about 15' below the roof. I stopped here to build a belay off large nuts and medium sized cams. It was then I got my first look into the depths of the shark's jaws, and could see what I was in for.

Some footage by Ken that I edited together.

The roof opened up into a large and continuous chimney feature that pinched near tight way up the top. I climbed up and squeezed my shoulders inside the wide crack, which allowed me to relax and place the largest Black Diamond Camalot the #6. With this placed in a constriction out left, I felt much more confident and continued to traverse up and right in the crack. Shortly after there is another #6 placement, and then you commit to the full on squeeze. You get both feet up into the crack and the strenuous climbing really begins. From here you do whatever it takes to move further up and right continuing inside the roof eventually placing the largest Trango Big Bro and trying not to knock it from its bomber placement as you limbo under it. Eventually are able to get your feet back down and one against the wall to the right. Once figuring out this position you get one last wide piece, and then you have to figure out how to fit through a slot out right to reach the anchor spot. Like most of the roof, it is a tight squeeze that requires some creative thinking and blind faith to make it through.

You may ask yourself "How did I get here?"

Overall the climb was an excellent adventure with a side of thrashed elbows and knees and a medium to medium-high chance of pooping your pants. I'm pretty elated having even completed this wild ride and coming out in one piece. It's nice to know that what once was a thought to climb an inspiring line can actually turn into reality. Weather the climb has been done before or not is a question that is at times hard to answer. But based on the amount of untouched stone that broke off, and the general intimidating nature of the climb I am thinking it hasn't been climbed in this style previously. As of now this route is still a pretty serious pursuit, and until we do a little more cleaning and improve the top anchor slightly it is not a great destination with those new to multi pitch traditional climbing. Although this thing is super wide and takes some of the largest gear on the market, don't attempt it without micro nuts, as they are key in building the belay above the roof. More information with be shared about this project as it becomes a little more accessible, and I look forward to eventually walking into Kraft and seeing someone once again climbing up into the massive roof.

View from under the roof at the first belay.

Thanks to Ken Rathcke for the photos and video from our ascent that day.

Take A Walk on the Wide Side

2012-01-28T17:38:00.000-08:00

Jason Molina gets comfortable on Lucky Nuts Right 5.9

I couldn't tell you exactly the first time I attempted to crack climb, probably because it was so embracing I attempted to erase it from my mind permanently. I can only tell you that I am not alone in being totally enthralled with crack climbing, even after my first attempts failed me miserably. But what is it that makes people love crack climbing? What makes it so special that people are willing to sacrifice all the skin on their hands, knees, and ankles just to attempt it? Although there could never be a simple answer to this, I believe the easiest way to understand the mysterious allure of crack climbing is to go out and view some large, seemingly never ending crack climbs. There will most likely be a deafening silence as you realize the massive size of the feature, and you'll know that you just have to interact with it somehow. Before you know it you're addicted to the clean cut crack climbs and will soon be attempting to fit hands, feet, and body inside like some sort of twisted masochistic human zig-saw puzzle rock climb. And that's when you'll know you're ready for real walk on the wild side, off-width climbing.

Jason Molina working a tight arm bar on Chrysler Crack 5.9

Off-width climbing is a little of everything, and a lot of nothing you've attempted before. The style gets its name for the off-sized cracks that are too wide for regular hand or foot jams and demand the use of specialized techniques to ascend upwards. Typically avoided by most climbers, off-width climbing has a cult following that loves the unique challenge of climbing using hand stacks, foot cams, and levitation. It is well understood that while one is off-width climbing pretty much anything goes, and any climbing methods or techniques conceived by the climber to make upward progress is accepted. (Except for pulling on gear of course.) Below is an interesting chart I found that illustraites common hand and foot crack techniques used in different sized cracks. "Leavittation" or "Levitation" is a term used by climbers to describe the mysterious techniques used in between hand stacks and arm bars when the climbing is most magical and tricky. Nobody (except Randy Leavitt) is quite sure what to do, so you learn to leavittate.

Chart courtesy of www.summitpost.com

Recently, my friend and climbing partner Jason Molina and I have been making our off-width dreams come true. (Or perhaps I should say, our off-width nightmares come to life.) After starring endlessly at all the cracks in Red Rocks, and reading about the most badass and classic off-widths we simply couldn't wait any longer. So we did our best to locate some Big-Bros (adjustable aluminum tubes used as protection for climbers in wide cracks) and set out to climb some of the classics. The first route that we decided to attempt was the 90' tall, 6"-18" wide Chrysler Crack in the Sandstone Quarry. Although this route is only rated at 5.9, it was one of the most difficult and physically demanding climbs I have ever attempted. There's not really any features to hold onto or step on beside the two smooth walls of the expanding crack. Only friction can save you now, and its up to each individual climber to figure out how the hell they expect to move upwards.

Too wide for hand stacks and too narrow to fit inside.
Matt Kuehl using foot stacks and attempting leavittation on Chrysler Crack.
Photo: Andy Reger

On my attempt of Chrysler Crack I attempted every possible contortion I could conceive. I tried foot-stacks, arm bars, chest jams, butt locks, knee smears, double elbow jams, thigh-clings, hip cams and even stacked knee jams. Everything worked a little bit for a little while, but nothing could work the whole time. Often the most difficult part was transitioning from one position to another, and it seems that climbing this route will put you in a perpetual state of stuck. Being as this was my first sustained route of this nature, it goes without saying that I was humbled by its difficulty, and it was certainly a learning experience. My second attempt felt just as physically demanding, but I was already getting a better sense of what I could do, and what simply wouldn't work. I squeezed and slid my way up to the top of the crack like some giant ungraceful worm wishing he had some water to drink. An unforgettable time.

Jason Molina getting used to the view halfway inside Chrysler Crack.

After my attempt Jason also gave it a good go, using the best of his knowledge and creative thinking ability to navigate the intimidating crack. I couldn't quite tell what he was doing half the time, but I could tell it was pretty tough stuff. We both ended up getting stumped in the same spot, and what once was an off-width ice breaker has now become and off-wdith test piece, one that we're determined to master. So with hopes of using what we've learned from Chrysler Crack, we decided to head to Calico Basin and get on The Last Calico, a little known crack of all trades in Calico Basin. Although the two climbs differ greatly, they both require a large and varied amount of crack climbing techniques, and are sustained and challenge your crack climbing endurance. Jason and I both enjoyed The Last Calico a bunch, and it was a nice confidence booster for what was going to come tomorrow... more off-widths in the canyons!

So we convened the next day in hopes of getting on three crack climbs in First Creek Canyon. We had our sights on two more 5.9's Lucky Nuts, and Mudterm for "warm ups" and if time allowed we'd give the 5.10d off-width Critical Cams a try. I racked up for Mudterm, which follows two duel finger cracks upwards for around 100'. The rock was a little sandy but it took good gear and it served its purpose of being a good and consistent climb to warm up on. After we all climbed that we focused our attention on the "burly" 5.9 to the left of it Lucky Nuts. Although the guidebook said we only needed gear up to 4", the part of the climb that looked most awesome to Jason and I was the off-wdith chimney to the right, which most climbers would use only briefly before heading to less strenuous climbing on fragile rock to the left. We could tell it would take very large gear, and it looked like not even the largest Camalot would fill the gap. So I racked up with Big Bro's and a #6 Camalot to see what we could figure out. My first piece was a #4 Big Bro about 20' off the ground. And although still new to placing Big Bros, I could tell that this one was bomber; I really bashed it into place. I pulled it every which way an it didn't budge. I now had the confidence that escaped me while leading Chrysler Crack and I continued to focus my mind on moving upwards, half squeezing and half smearing.

Double knee bar/smear/reverse mantel/squeeze to sloper.
Mysterious climbing techniques are always encouraged.
Photo: Jason Molina

Matt Kuehl working to protect the gash with another Trango Big Bro.
Photo: Jason Molina

I eventually settled into a "comfortable" position by keeping my feet smearing out left on the featureless and sandy sandstone, while I scummed my knees against the wall for extra security and pressed my shoulder and chest into the crack on the right. I wiggled and dragged my way up a ways like this until I was finally able to combine a series of moves to reach a slopping edge inside the wide crack. From this position I started the awkward transition of moving my body through the bend in the crack, where I experienced much difficulty. I finally settled into a double knee bar/jam and managed to place a .3 Camalot in a small constriction inside the crack. I slowly squeezed upwards eventually contorting myself through the bend, where I was able to stand on what my knees had been previously wedged against. I looked around for somewhere I could place the #6 Camalot, and finally found a sneaky little spot inside the crack but almost entirely out of view. Although on the wider side of this cam's range, it was a solid placement that I was glad to find and knew could hold a fall.

Making upward progress one pained face at a time, Lucky Nuts Right.
Photo: Jason Molina

Eventually Lucky Nuts Right meets up with the original Lucky Nuts, and you gain access to a corner just previously out of reach to the left. This corner is helpful for stemming, and helps make upward progress and eases the difficult transition from off-width squeeze to inside corner finger crack. Jason gave it an attempt, and I've never see such persistence in all of my days. Although making progress only inches at a time in the crux (only to slide back down 15 seconds later) Jason gave a commendable effort in completing the transition from the off-width variation back to the original line. Although this route is rated at only 5.9, it requires a physical exertion I would equate to being similar to moving a large couch up five flights of stairs. It is extremely awkward, painful and tiresome, but once it's all said and done you are amazed and psyched you were able to do it. It was part puzzle, part strength and part stamina. The desire to attempt even stranger off-widths soon comes next...

Jason Molina between stem and squeeze on Lucky Nuts Right.

Although this post has only been a brief encounter with off-widith climbing, I encourage all climbers to give it a shot when the opportunity presents itself. At some point the skills you learn will be vital building blocks to progress and being comfortable on a climb that you're hoping you don't struggle on or wish you could just breeze through. Face climbing is a small part of what the versatile sport of rock climbing has to offer, so don't limit yourself to clipping bolts and crimping edges (although these too are great parts of the sport.) To embrace the challenge of crack climbing, especially off-width climbing, is to embrace the true challenge and tradition of climbing. It may not always be pretty and it's certainly not going to be easy, but it will be rewarding and one of a kind. Off-width and squeeze climbing to me is a celebration of the diversity of the rock itself and how humans are able to move and adapt within it. It is a special bond, a love/hate relationship, an understanding and an unwavering respect of the natural world we choose to face. So go out there and climb a crack, because before you know you're gonna learn to love it.

Totally thrashed! I think it's time for some tape gloves.

New Routes and New Friends

2012-01-23T12:48:00.000-08:00

Joanne Urioste on the summit of her new route.

I recently had an awesome opportunity to climb traditional multipitch with two climbers who have been rock climbing for longer than I have been alive! Joanne Urioste and Hans Peters have done it all but they're not stopping anytime soon. As any avid Red Rocks climber knows, Joanne Urioste has been climbing and developing new routes in the area with her husband Jorge since the mid 70's. Together they have done countless first ascents, many of which are now considered must-do area classics such as Epinephrin, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Olive Oil, Frogland, Crimson Chrysalis, Eagle Dance, Levitation 29, The Nightcrawler... the list could go on and on! I've only done a small handful of the routes she has put up, one of which is on my list of personal favorite climbs Eagle Dance. I was introduced to Joanne through Hans, who has been friends with Joanne for quiet some time. On a beautifully sunny winter day here in Vegas the three of us went up to do a new route of Joanne's in Pine Creek. After being shown where the climb starts and a brief discription from Joanne, I was soon racking up to climb. The first 20' of the climb is a completed unprotected chimney squeeze, and simply not for the faint of heart. Although the climbing is mostly secure, a fall would result in a rough slide through a squeeze back down to the ground. Not ideal. Luckily there was no issues climbing the chimney, but Hans decided to pass on the climb due to a recent back injury. Joanne and I decided to keep going, and swapped leads all the way to the top.

Joanne following on pitch 1.

Climbing with Joanne was a most excellent time. Not only is she a great climber and first ascentionist, but she is very friendly, talkative, and was genuinely interested in talking about my personal climbing endeavors and photography. I mentioned to her some of my favorite routes in the area, many of which she put up. I also got to here some great stories and memories from the first ascents, and it was great to here some stories from someone who was actually there. As I followed her up after she lead some pitches, I learned a few new tricks about using a sling, biner, and knot to protect some features that won't take tradition placements such as nuts and cams. (A technique that I ended up using on the next pitch anchors.) We even discussed the possibility of climbing Epinephrin barefoot... something she said was possible but not to underestimate the amount of face climbing required too.

Joanne cleaning gear on Pitch 3

So at a relaxed pace we climbed the five pitches and made the summit in good time while enjoying the casual climbing and conversation the whole way. At the top we looked out at the incredible view before us, and took the time to enjoy the sight and embraced the warming sun. I couldn't resist taking a few summit photos, something that usually gets overlooked on the regular days climbing. The photos from the top turned out to be some of my favorites from the day, and really gives a good perspective on the placement of the climb, and the great view that exists from most every multipitch in Red Rocks.

Matt Kuehl and Joanne Urioste at the summit.

Joannes very worn out #1 Camalot. Dang! Still bomber.

The day before I climbed with Joanne I met up with Hans to go climb One-Armed Bandit on the Rose Tower. He had mentioned to me over the phone that him and Jorge Urioste had recently went to do the route, but couldn't locate it's first pitch! So the pressure was on for me to find the right first pitch on the 500' line, a slightly daunting task considering I've never seen the route and have only been climbing on Rose Tower once before. So together we ventured into the canyon and used our best judgment on locating the 5.7

Kyle Broderick checking out the new corner crack "Brother Bill's Great Thrill" 5.10
Matt Kuehl, Jason Molina, Jan 2012

In the process we found two excellent corner cracks within 20 feet of each other, the longer of the two which we decided must be One-Armed Bandit because it looked so excellent. So I racked up and tied in to lead the pitch, which was surprisingly difficult. Soon after we both agreed that it couldn't possibly be the 5.7 we were looking for because the climbing was far to hard. Although the climb was superb I had to retreat and find the right route. So I bailed off the top of the "first pitch" leaving an anchor built of a sling and some nuts. As I got back down to the base of the climb Hans and I discussed how great the corner looked, and we wondered if it had been climbed before. Without too much thought, we moseyed further into the canyon and found the true 5.7 climbing we were looking for. Much easier!

The other new corner crack "Gypsy Davey" 5.9+
Matt Kuehl, Jason Molina, Jan 2012

About a week after I first climbed the crack I came back with my climbing friend Jason Molina to attempt to cleanly climb both corners. So once again I racked up for the corner, this time prepared for its difficulty and now equipped with webbing and a steel rappel ring to set up a more permanent anchor for the two routes. The climb was even more exciting than I remembered, and features a difficult layback on slick varnished rock, bomber hand jams, an off width section, and even a 15-20' run out in a chimney! What else could you ask for? We both climbed the route clean, and lowered off the new anchor to try the next corner just to the left. We both starred at it for a while, contemplating how we'd attempt to climb the steep finger crack corner. The two of us thought it looked something like 5.11, but couldn't be sure until we got up there on the first attempt. So once again I racked up, put the helmet on, and got psyched for wild ride. As I started climbing, more face holds revealed themselves, and the ones that didn't break off were all pretty good. Unfortunately this took a lot of the spice out of the climb, and it never really became difficult until you had to pull over the bulge. Some breif strenuous lay backing will put up on top of the feature, where you can easily stand and then begin the hand traverse right to finish on Uncle Bill's Great Thrill.

"Hueco Ladder" V0-
The crux is grabbing the finish hold, I think something might be living inside.

The process of climbing a new route that potentially no one has been on before is quite a rush, and embraces a lot of the aspects of climbing that I most enjoy. The challenge of looking at a climb from the ground and then going to attempt it with no detailed knowledge of its features is something that I would equate to one of the most pure forms of tradition climbing. The leader has to make important decisions on gear placements, movement, direction and pitch length. There is no guidebook to help you, no bolts to direct you or ease your worries, and you never know what gear you'll get in, or how far spaced it will be. It is simply you, the rock, your belayer, and an adventure into the great unknown. I believe it takes a certain type of climber to embrace these (increasingly uncommon) aspects of climbing, especially in the era of over trafficked sport climbs, perma-draws, and tick marks. But the climbs are there for anyone to do, and if you've got the motivation and commitment required to attempt an unrecorded climb you might just find yourself having an unforgettable experience.

*** I have talked to Jerry Handren, the author of Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide about these two new routes. He mentioned that they might have been climbed before as variation pitches to Olive Oil or One-Armed Bandit, but have no recorded ascents and are unestablished climbs. So in an attempt to be most accurate and considerate to the climbers of ye ol' day I have decided to avoid any conversation about f these are "First Ascents" or just "undocumented climbs". Either way Jason and I are excited to help establish and put a name to some of the low-trafficed unnamed cracks here in Red Rocks and look forward to there appearance in a future guidebook.

Alpinist/Access Fund Ad

2012-01-17T13:47:00.000-08:00

Alpinist.com front page

I'm excited to share that a photo I took in the Red River Gorge sometime back in the Fall of 2009 is being used in and ad for Alpinist and the Access Fund. The photo can be seen on the Alpinist website and in the Spring 2012 issue. I haven't seen the ad in print yet but will be making a trip to the gear shop to find it. It is rumored to be appearing on page 35 in issue #37. The route is Paradise Lost 5.13b in the Pendergrass-Murry Recreational Preserve in Kentucky.

Issue 37

As viewed online

Fear This Post

2012-01-03T22:08:00.000-08:00

Zak zings off the top crux of Fear This Sport...
Andy gets the ejector seat belay.

I hope everyone had an excellent holiday! I've been staying pretty busy these last few weeks, and it hardly seems like time is passing... although it is passing very fast! I was able to travel back to Wisconsin to see my family for christmas as well as seeing some of my good ol' Wisconsin swillbilly friends. There was not nearly enough time of course, and I could only see a small handful of the people I would have liked to. Fortunately it wasn't very long before some visitors came out West to see me here in Vegas. The day after I got back home our good friends Zak and Bethany drove up from Flagstaff to come climb with us in Red Rocks. So climb we did.

Zak Romuald moves off the marginal top crux crimps.
Fear This Sport 5.12b

Just a day after expeirencing the Wisconsin winter (although there was no snow yet this year) I was already back out climbing shirtless and in NEW pants! The temperatures were unbeatable, and believe it or not it was almost a little too hot in the sun. The psych was high and this was definitely reflected in our climbing for the extended weekend. Their visit had a lot of highlights, but in my opinion our best climbing day was probably our fourth day on. We all decided to go to Cannibal Crag for a shorter "half day" of climbing. Andy and I were both working on "Fear This Sport" 5.12b and were getting darn close. This route features a really bouldery opening sequence that requires lunging for a terrible crimp. The move is low to the ground and provides for a pretty exciting belay. We all blew the move at least a half dozen times, but we all prevailed gracefully at least once.

Andy Hansen sticks the low crux crimp.
Fear This Sport 5.12b

Having got pretty close on the route before, my goal was to send it ground up on my first attempt of the day. But as we all know gravity can be ferocious, and today seemed like it might be no exception. I fell off the bad crimp a few times, but eventually dialed in my beta and finished it up. Once I was at the top I hung my rope down and prepared to rappel in off a fixed line to shoot photos of the route. I hung for a while and shot photographs from a few different angles and distracted my self from the difficulty of climbing. While shooting I just focused on the excitement of the route and the beauty of the day instead of the fact that I couldn't send. When I lowered off and cleaned my rope I was ready to move on, but Zak and Andy both encouraged me to give the route another go. With a new enthusiasm I roped up again and went for the send... and with new enthusiasm I fell off the wall barely missing my innocent belayer, who now hung off the ground enthusiastically below.

Myself nearing the top for the long awaited send.
Fear This Sport 5.12b

I gave it a rest for five minutes and tried to shake my tired arms back to normal. Feeling slightly better I chalked up my hands and left the ground. Once again I lunged for the terrible crimp, only this time I stuck it and held on long enough to pull the next move to a better hold. I felt as if the hardest part was over, but I knew the top was nothing to take lightly. So I did my best to stay relaxed and remember the rest of the moves. Luckily the holiday season hadn't done too much damage on my climbing, and I was able to stick all the rest of the moves, including more small crimps at the top that leads to the finish. When I got to the top I clipped the top two draws and felt a great sense of relief. Andy took up the remaining slack and started lowering me back down to the ground. When it was all over I felt like a sweaty million bucks that was covered with chalk and wearing a purple bandana... and that's when I knew it was more than just a send, it was a new accomplishment; a goal met.

My first climbing goal of 2012.
A barefoot ascent of the iconic 25' tall Plumbers Crack.

Ice Climbing in Wisconsin Trails Magazine

2011-12-28T12:07:00.000-08:00

Patrick Bodien at the 2011 Ice Fest

Wisconsin Trails magazine has written up an article about ice climbing in Wisconsin for the Jan/Feb issue. I believe the article primarily focuses on The Ice Pit in De Pere, which is an area I've visited many times to climb and photograph. In the write up they have included a shot I took at the second annual Midwest Ice Climbers Festival last January. I haven't gotten a chance to read the article yet, but I saw it just long enough to shoot a snapshot of the published photo. I am looking forward to hearing what they have to say about The Pit and am psyched that ice climbing is a featured activity back in Wisconsin. If you're curious about the article they will go on sale January 10th at bookstores, grocery stores and drugstores across the state, or check out there website for other distribution options.

Snapshot of the publication

Keyhole Canyon Bouldering

2011-12-21T13:45:00.000-08:00

A beautiful emptiness.

On a rainy day here in Vegas a few friends and I drove south to do some climbing in Keyhole Canyon. The stone at Keyhole is granite which varies greatly from the sandstone found in Red Rock Canyon. It was a new destination to explore, and we knew the rock would probably be the most solid out of everything around. So we filled up Jason's truck with crash pads and cliff bars and bee lined it down south to the granite getaway. As usual is was a pretty tight squeeze to get everyone inside the truck for the drive, but like off-width climbing sometimes it's fun to squeeze. After about 40 minutes of driving we had reached our turn out. This gravel road in the middle of a vast nothingness was easy to miss and the nearest landmark was a field of solar panels a few miles away, anything else was just passing by.

The road that leads to the canyon requires a high clearance vehicle to realistically pass. The truck made easy work of the drive, but it certainly was bumpy. After about ten minutes of being tossed around while listening to Bob Dylan we arrived at our destination. Right away we realized that this place was going to be well worth the drive. The sun was peaking in through the slightly overcast clouds, and the granite stone canyons just called for us to explore. It didn't take much walking from the truck to find some good boulders, and all of the problems we attempted were within a five minute walk. The canyon itself had a lot of remains from days or years previous, and it almost seemed as if we had stepped into a time capsule. It appeared that this area sees little traffic and doesn't get effected by changing weather very much. If you looked around you could find old fire pits, dead spiders, petrified poop, and most interestingly ancient petroglyphs. It seems that aside from a few bolts and random remains, not much has changed in Keyhole Canyon for quite some time.

Tarantulas love bouldering, but not when they're dead.

The first noticeable concentration of problems is located on the Natural Selection, and Fluer de Lis Boulders. These two boulders are opposite each other on the canyon walls, and offer a selection of climbs ranging from V0-V6. A few of the problems follow attractive crack systems, and the disappearing crack on Adaptation V5 felt exceptionally hard for the grade. This area provides a nice warm up with a few harder lines to really get the blood flowing. After spending some time here we move further into the canyon to check out Lip Traverse, McMillens Egg, and the waterfall (now dry) that at one point in time gradually craved the canyon. We all considered these next two problems to be a lot of fun, and pretty classic for the area.

Jason Molina slaps his way McMillens Egg V6.

Jason contemplating slopers on McMillens Egg.

As the name implies, McMillen's Egg V6 climbs a rounded egg like boulder that mostly features all rounded holds. Although being pretty short, and certainly not the easiest way to the top of the boulder, this problem provided us with a good challenge that differed from the crack/face style problems we warmed up on. McMillen's Egg required using several bad sloper corner holds, while bumping and slapping your way up the egg. The crux seemed to be getting your feet above the first good lip and moving to the finishing holds from the bad slopers and nonexistent feet.

Chris Keller squeezes his way up the dry waterfall.

Chris on Lip Traverse V3.

The Lip Traverse problem was a ton of fun and pretty sustained for a V3. We all had success on this problem that day, even though it seemed that many approaches and techniques were used. Everyone had a slightly different technique dialed in on this one. Some of us tried going heel and toe hooks the whole traverse, while others preferred a low-rider feet down low ball technique. Anyway you looked at it the crux was mantling up onto the boulder for the finish, and it seemed there were easier and harder variations of the final move as well. What can be agreed on is that everyone found this problem to be well worth the stop, and every move as good as the last.

A3 Traverse.

Another surprise that day was a handful of excellent looking aid "problems" that we found. Although this type of climbing is pretty much unheard of and is only good for practice, it is neat to spot different aesthetic lines that would otherwise be impossible to climb. Doing this would be unacceptable on already established free climbing routes due to risk of damaging the rock, but otherwise could serve as good aid combing practice. Pictured above is a short 10 foot aid traverse section that could only be done by pulling consecutively moves on progressively smaller hook placements. Rad! Although most people wouldn't find this stuff that amusing, it is good to know that bouldering can even appeal to the "big-wallers" out there.

So if it's rainy in Red Rocks, or you're looking for a new granite climbing destination climbing take a trip down to Keyhole Canyon for a day or two. The scenery, history and climbing all combined make it a unique gem hidden out in the wide open spaces of the southern Nevada desert. And if you look hard enough you're bound to see a ton of Petroglyths!

Birdland 5.7+

2011-12-18T11:36:00.000-08:00

Ben Willkommen places a .3 on the first pitch of Birdland.

If you have ever over heard people talking about Red Rock Canyon it is probably them praising the long moderate multi-pitch routes like Epinephrin, Crimson Chrysalis, and Solar Slab. These routes are classic because they pose a fun, long, challenge while still remaining accessible, clean, and mostly well bolted. These climbs, along with hundreds of other moderate multi-pitches attract climbers from across the globe to test or hone in on their multi-pitch skills in preparation for the next big adventure.

One climb that falls into the easy/moderate multi-pitch classics is Birdland 5.7+ in Pine Creek Canyon. Although not nearly as committing and long as Epinephrin, Birdland has five pitches of easy to moderate climbing, bolted anchors, and is less than an hour from the car. Mark Limage and Chris Burton only put this line up in 2001, but since has become extremely popular and has probably seen thousands of ascents from beginning multi-pitchers to old school wall veterans. Birdland is simply a must climb for the grade.

Lindsey Gram checks out the pitch 3 traverse.

A few days ago I had the pleasure of doing this climb with five friends from Wisconsin. We hiked in with the warm December and could spot the line from the trail. The large group we had today presented me personally with my first good opportunity to photograph on a multi-pitch climb, which would put my photography skills to the test. This climb (among countless others) has been photographed from point and shoot cameras from each and every belay, with an even larger amount of butt shots from the ground. Although I have shot these types of photos while belaying and multi-pitching before, this time I wanted to approach it with a little more planning and vision. In order to get the photos I was looking for I needed to be independent from the climbers, hanging somewhere around them in mid air. Things worked out perfectly for photographing considering the larger group we had this day, but there were some additional logistics we also had to figure out on the climbing side. With six people total on route we decided to break into three separate teams of two, each team with a climber and belayer at anytime, which turned out to be pretty ideal. So thinking ahead considering how to get the best perspective, I decided to lead things off and left the ground first. Being the first person up gave me some time to scope out the best places to shoot, and also allowed me to fix a line to rappel/ascended independently for positioning on pitches one, three and five.

Ben Willkommen after the traverse.

The third pitch on Birdland is when the fun/challenging climbing really starts. This pitch starts on a good ledge and moves up a flake through some okay gear placements before you eventually reach a bolt. After the bolt there is a relatively exposed traverse left and up until you can eventually place a nut. This section of the climb is pretty exciting and is where I first thought I might get some good shots. So after climbing this pitch and bringing up my belayer, I fixed my rope and rapped back down the pitch. I positioned myself above the traverse and hung here for a while. I was able to shoot both Ben and Lindsey on lead, and Chris seconding the pitch. It was cool to see everyone having a good time on this section, especially considering it was Ben and Lindsey's first multi-pitch route. After spending some time hanging here it was time to get the show back on the road. So I jugged back up my line and got racked up to lead the last two pitches.

Chris Keller on the excellent last pitch of Birdland.

The fifth pitch is by far the most exciting and aesthetic pitch. After rounding over the last lip the climber gains a thin finger crack the goes up the last portion of the pitch. This impressive crack just calls out to be climbed, and provides the climber with a spicy section of stone protected by some potentially tricky nut placements for protection. After pulling through the crack and reaching for the sucker ledge, you end up just feet below the anchors. The whole pitch is excellent, and is an exciting finish to the climb. Above this there is an addition six pitch that can be climbed, but it is rumored to be a little choosy and broken, so most people lower after the highlight fifth pitch. In the interest of time we also decided to rap after the fifth pitch allowing more time for the other two parties. It was a little tricky rapping from the same shared anchors as the climbers who were still climbing, but with a little patience it can be done pretty easily and even allows for some climber to rappeller high fives.

Who's this hangdog?

So if you're looking for an easy/moderate multi-pitch for your first trip to Red Rocks, or just want to get on one of the classic I'd certainly recommend Birdland. The route soaks up sun and the first few pitches have nice large ledges. You can rappel from any of the anchors and retreat would be no problem so long as there isn't a bunch of people below you chomping at the bit.

Clippin' Bolts, Throwin' Wobblers, and Avoiding Hibernation

2011-12-12T19:56:00.000-08:00

Andy Hansen on Steep Thrills 5.12a

The weather the last few days has definitely been in the favor of us south-western climbers. Temps during the day are about 50° and now that the wind is gone you can spend all day plenty warm climbing in the sun. Although no climber leaves the house or campground without at least one warmer layer, it is still a safe bet that if you follow the sun, you'll be warm enough to climb. My climbing friends and I are finding that these temps are best suitable for bouldering and sport climbing, which also matches our current desires to get stronger this winter. Seeing as these types of climbing also require less time and equipment, it is easier to make the most of the sun and avoid having to commit to a long climb,which will more quickly go into the shade and leave you with the "screaming barfies." Lately I've personally been interested in getting on more 5.12s, and I have been trying a lot of 5.12b and up. I am hoping that the more I apply myself on these climbs the more the moves will become easier to figure out and execute more regularly. Recently some friends and I went to the popular sport climbing crag The Gallery, and I had an opportunity to get on The Gift 5.12d and Where the Down Boys Go 5.12d. Both climbs are overhanging, pumpy and have very bouldery sections protected by perma-draws. This makes it a no brainer to attempt and is something I was glad to do. I have visited The Gallery several times before attempting these harder lines, but when I did I was encouraged by the fact that they both felt achievable and not impossible.

Senja Palonen low on The Gift 5.12d

Senja getting one last shake before entering the crux.

... Senja just after falling off the crux hold.

On all of my visits to The Gallery I have seen many people attempting to send The Gift, but I can't ever say I've seen anyone do it successfully. The climb features about 35 feet of pumpy and fun climbing before it's crux, which is two or three small crimpers just far enough apart to shut most mortal climbers down attempt after attempt. The crux holds are sharp and a little bit awkward. On my attempt I chose to bypass the two worst holds and rather did a large and static cross through to the best of the three holds... beta which I'm not sure is ideal either. The climb was a great challenge and besides a few greasy holds was a lot of fun. Later on I was lucky enough to get to watch and photograph Senja Palonen on one of her attempts this winter, and from the sounds of it she's been trying to do this climb clean for over a year now. Although giving it one hell of a try she was still unsuccessful and fell off the crux hold... After her second attempt of the day it looked liked it still might have to wait for another day. The sharp point on the right hand crux hold managed to tear up her finger and even drew a little blood, something not terribly uncommon in this sport. But the reality is an unfortunate sign that the send might have to wait till next time...

Andy Reger gets the send on Donkey Punch

After a rest day from two days of sport climbing we decided to gather the troops and go out bouldering at Kraft boulders in Calico Basin. Old friends and new friends came together for a day attempting what many climbers lovingly refer to as "pebble wrestling". Although this shorter rope-less variation of rock climbing doesn't usually climb higher than 15 feet off the ground, it is nothing to shake a stick clip. Bouldering really packs a punch in those short segments of climbing. Often the moves required on bouldering problems are more technically difficult than on most routes, it just usually isn't as sustained or pumpy overall. Although I was probably no higher above the ground than a two story house, I left Kraft that day feeling like I had climbed a long multi-pitch climb somewhere back in the canyons.

John Starr on Alexisizer V5/V6

My favorite problem of the day was Alexisizer V5/V6, which is a difficult slopey traverse which lead to a powerful mantle and top out. The moves were tricky throughout and a total riot to figure out. For me deciding how to grab the slopper holds across the traverse came naturally, but the foot work and multiple heel/toe hooks to figure out proved to be the more cryptic aspect of the climb. Every attempt ended with my falling or slipping off with a huge grin on my face, not even bummed, just happy to try it again. I came close to sending it that day, but kept falling on one of the last traverse moves to match hands on a decent horn out right. This problem didn't leave me feeling frustrated, but instead I left even more psyched than I had arrived.

Lindsey Gram on an unknown problem (V2?) on the Warm Up Boulder.

Lindsey and the lady crew bouldered circles around the men. As the men were "throwing wobblers" attempting problems harder than we're probably capable of, they were topping out boulder after boulder, some of which they jokingly referred to as first ascents. One of the problems they were working on that caught my eye was a short desperate face climb on the backside of the Warm Up Boulder. A few crimps and a long move to a slopey crimp would bring you to the top, if only it was that easy. The move looked awesome and I got a few good shots of them giving it a go.

Andy Hansen working the moves on "Monkey Bar Right" V6

Lastly we gathered what was left of our strength and walked over to the Monkey Bar Boulder. This popular boulder is home to a handful of great problems, all of which top out surprisingly high off the ground. Andy, John, and I started focusing out attention of a V6 called Monkey Bar Right, which was seeing good light at that time of day. I gave a few attempts, one of which I found myself not even sure how I was still holding on and with an increasing side ache. Andy seemed to dig this problem the most and he spent some time working it as I shot photos. Being a little tired I decided to try something slightly easier, and gave Hyperglide V4/V5 a go. This problem starts on a few good holds and then you find yourself on a okay pinch, and a terrible crimp. Gaining the next bad crimp requires a very high foot and intense core strength, a move I was surprised to pull off on my second attempt. The top out was extra spicy at 20ish feet above the earth, and as I pulled on questionable less traveled stone I tapped into my multi-pitch-trad-runout state of mind... three points of contact, don't pull too hard, and don't fall! It was an exciting finish to a great problem, one that I am sure I'll be back on again.

John Starr moving off the two bad crimps on Hyperglide

Eagle Dance and The Simple Life

2011-11-30T14:48:00.001-08:00

Unknown climber on Levitation 29.

A lot has come to change during the month or so since my last post. Since then I have spent most all of my time removed from my previous everyday use of technology. I have embraced once again "the simple life" or as it turns out... just life without a computer, TV, music player, or place to upload photos. Hardly simple and certainly not difficult, life without these things is just a little slower,quiet and removed. Without a computer to flip open and the internet to browse endlessly I now find myself flipping pages of a books and pointing through maps instead. The local library became my best resource for information and even a little entertainment. I spend more days exploring my brain, observing things for too long, and starring off into space contemplating existence. On my days off from this grueling mental head space I go to work at the photo studio, and on my days off from that I escape to go out and climb in Red Rock. The escape climbing provides me is very balanced. It is relaxingly intense, quietly motivating, humbly challenging, and peacefully life threatening. The escape itself is balanced with the predictablity of my everyday obligations outside of climbing, and this balance makes the climbing even more rewarding. I am finding that "the simple life" is balance. It is a shame that this understanding was gained as the result of my Las Vegas house being robbed, but like everything... the scales always have a way of leveling out.

Andy on one of the upper pitches of Eagle Dance.

On one of my days off Andy and I set out to do the classic line Eagle Dance 5.10+/A0. This line is next to another classic route, Levitation 29 5.11c, which we've both had our sights on for over a year. Both lines are long and ascend the intimidatingly steep vertical face of the Eagle Wall. Eagle Dance is the easier of the two routes but once being called "a death route" is certainly nothing to take lightly. At a route length of 1000' with 11 pitches and an approach and descent which combined took about five hours in itself, it is safe to say that attempting this route was committing and a test of our endurance. To help add to the level of commitment for our ascent Andy and I chose to only bring one 60 meter rope, which would make retreat (bailing) via rappel extremely difficult, if not impossible to do safely. I guess we valued the ability to travel quickly with one rope than having the ability to bail. Our sights were set at the summit, and once we left the car we knew we'd only be back having successfully reached it. This type of approach isn't uncommon in climbing, but for Andy and I this would be out first big-wall style ascent in a day.

Andy leads up the A0/A1 aid section of Eagle Dance.

Although it is often overlooked, there is a significant differance between this route and other long Red Rock multi-pitches. Indeed a "big wall" style climb is different from the "regular" long multi-pitch climbs, but a little it open to interpretation. In most occurrences, big wall style ascents are long and often cannot be done (easily) in a day. On most big wall climbs, setting up temporary bivouacs or a "bivys" is the only way to take a break from the climbing to eat and sleep during the night. Often the bivy will be a porta-ledge that is brought on the climb, or if the route provides it will be a natural ledge. Big wall climbs often include pitches or sections of rock that cannot (easily) be climbed freely without the aid of climbing equipment for vertical progression. On these "unclimbable" pitches Aid climbing is implemented to ascend past what would be extremely difficult, or otherwise unclimbable terrain that cannot be avoided. Being able to do these pitches requires an understanding of the Aid discipline of rock climbing, which is often entirely overlooked or not taken seriously by some climbers. The reality is Aid climbing is difficult even at its easiest rating (A0) and extremely dangerous at its hardest (A5). Hard Aid requires sequential gear placements that are so marginal they can only temporaily hold body weight! That means no falling... Although Eagle Dance had no Aid climbing as serious as that, the A0/A1 section did provide us with a unique challenge and difficulties about halfway up the Eagle Wall.

As a side note: When Eagle Dance was first climbed it took Jorge and Joanne Urioste two days to complete and it can be assumed they bived on one on of the routes natural ledges, one or two which are large enough for two people to lay down. The route didn't see a lot of traffic (by today's standards) and after it's initially ascent in 1980 it was soon considered a "death route" due to the terrible bolts and bad gear. In 2002 most (but not all) the bolts were replaced with modern hardware and they once again became a classic.

Andy on one of the lower pitches of Eagle Dance.

We spent a leisurely six hours climbing Eagle Dance that day, stopping at some of the ledges to take it all in listen to a few tunes. The view from the different ledges was exceptional because of the continuousness of the wall, which seemed to haves vaulted us into the sky. The large slabs beneath us seemed to have shrunk and the massive Ponderosa Pines we used to find our way on the approach now shared an equal grandeur of the surounding scrub oak bushes. The wall easily towered over the valley and we found ourselves somewhere in between the distant earth and the nearing sky.

After a few minutes of relaxation, Andy and I kept moving upward towards the summit. Near the top even the 5.9 pitches felt like 5.10. Most of the cruxes on the route already felt harder than we expected and like our bodies, the rock itself was becoming fatigued from overuse. What at one time was an OK handhold was now a worn down sandy ripple in the soft sandstone. Many hands and many feet have used, or attempted to use, the same holds for almost 32 years now. The result is a route that is technically harder to climb, and often requires the use of less positive holds, more balance and less resting. There were two distinct crux pitches on this route, but there were also 2-3 more than proved to be a respectable challange for Andy and I. Although we both climbed the route without falling, there were times were both of us weren't quite sure how we didn't slip the disappearing holds.

The rustiest car in Vegas showing its good side.

Eagle Dance will be one of the first routes on my list of climbing success stories to tell in the future, and certainly on my list of recommended routes. As for the stories, some of them are best told in person. So the near time the beer is out, and the camp fire is roaring, you better believe I'll be telling a more detailed and (potentially) exaggerated story from our day spent climbing my favorite route in Red Rocks so far. Cheers to Eagle Dance!

To Crush And Be Crushed

2011-10-17T17:48:00.000-07:00

Using the only two face holds while crushing "The Fox" 5.10d

There comes a time in every climbers life when they climb a route so effortlessly and without hesitation that many would say they've "crushed" the route. When it happens there could be no higher "high" and it is a feeling every climber longs for. For the common climber this anomaly might only happen once or twice a year, and for some otherworldly climbers (who are referred to as "Serial Crushers") it might happen daily. When it happens you can always hear the primal yells of excitement and joy coming from the anchors at the moment of the send. But being as climbing is one of the most humbling activities out there, it seems more often than not we spend our days getting "crushed" rather than "crushing". The primal yells that echo through the canyons are more often that of pain, fear, and exhaustion after discovering you are too pumped to continue the route and now forced to take the fall.

Getting inverted on "Risk Brothers Roof" 5.11a left me feeling very crushed.

After spending a good three weeks consistently climbing here in Red Rock Canyon I am becoming quite familiar with the feeling of being crushed. I've been shut down on countless cruxes, got even worse at bouldering, dropped my belay device off a multipitch route, bush wacked through the wrong approach, watched gear fall out after I placed it, had the only holds I was using break right off the wall, and walked directly into a cactus... you name it and it's crushed me. It is simply a part of the sport that every climber needs to embrace in order to truly enjoy the experience and to be prepared for the next great challenge. For Andy and I the next great challenge is often trying to push our ability to ascend the hardest traditional (trad) climbs that we can do. More often then not we end up falling or weighting the rope to rest, but in between all the attempts and mild frustration there is an unquestionable feeling of excitement. This excitement to embrace the challenge is what eventually leads to achievement. And that feeling of achievement is a reward that is worth all the blood, sweat, and tears. (We don't cry but you get the point.)

Contemplating if I'm going to crush or get crushed.

Crushing my foot.

We recently attempted to climb a route in Calico Basin called "Risk Brothers Roof." The route is a 5.11 crack that goes directly up a very impressive roof. The route is located near the top of a cliff band and is a little tricky to hike too, but once you're there you can't help but want to try this beautifully exposed line. The route starts off pretty relaxed and you're able to briefly use a few good face holds before the real serious part begins. Sooner than later you have only the crack to work with and you're required to do hand and foot jams to ascend the roof. For those who are unfamiliar with crack climbing, jamming is more or less just getting your hands and feet stuck in the crack temporarily in order to keep progressing upward. The wild part is when you do jams you're not really even "holding on" and you're always walking the line between just sliding out and getting a hand or foot legitimately stuck in the crack. The entire roof section of this route is like nothing I've tried before, and it was the first time in my all of climbing experience were I found it strategic to put both my feet above my head. This technique allowed me to weight my feet while I moved my hands further and further down the crack. When I first tried it I was amazed it was actually working and I felt like a million bucks, for a short while... Eventually I fell out of the crack upside down and couldn't really figure out the best way to use this "inversion" technique. I tried it several times and was almost successful, but before I knew my body was trashed, and I no longer had the strength for any more attempts. I got crushed.

Andy gets the rope crushed in the crack on his first attempt.

Andy Hansen digs deep to crush a good handjam.

Andy gave the route his second try and I hung and shot photos of the attempt. He got close again but eventually fell out of the roof in the crux section. He tried once more after that and soon realized he had no strength left to continue and lowered off. When it was all said and done we were both absolutely exhausted and it became apparent that we had been significantly crushed by this route. We both can climb 5.11a, but this route was like no other 5.11a that we've done, and we were humbled by how burly it was. We both deemed the route great and destined it to be sent at a later date. The next day was to bring yet another burly climb, so we went home for dinner and a beer to rest up.

Andy Hansen crushing his first 5.11d trad climb "Spring Break".

While looking for potential harder trad climbs to work on Andy and I stumbled upon a great looking face climb called "Spring Break" 5.11d. The features and color of the stone reminded us both of our home crag Devil's Lake. This route features lots of discontinuous crack systems that are separated by horizontal cracks with a few good holds to rest on here and there. Like the Lake, the gear on "Spring Break" is notoriously hard to find and further spaced apart than a lot of other climbs here in Red Rocks. Also similar to the Lake, the climbing on this route is very technical, balancy, and sequency. It was a route that seemed to be calling our names, so we went out and gave it a go. Our first visit to the route we were a little intimidated by the line, and although we both wanted to try and onsight it on lead it soon became clear that if you were to fall within the first twenty feet you'd probably hit the ground. We decided it might be better to toprope it first and figure out the tricky gear placements in a more controlled way. So we both got on the route it did it with relative success, the whole time mentally preparing ourselves for the eventual lead.

Me on my send of "Spring Break" 5.11d Barely crushed.

Two days after we first got on the route we were back to give it a go on lead. We flipped a carabiner to see who would be the lucky one to attempt the lead first, and Andy won the toss. So I got my camera out and set up the ladder (we hiked in a ladder to get a better angle to shoot from) to shoot Andy's attempt. He climbed it pretty cool and collected like a champ, and before you knew it he was at the anchors with the send. The psych level was super high after watching my buddy successfully climb his hardest trad climb to date, and I roped up in hopes of getting mine too. I racked up the gear and tried to remember the beta as best as I could. Soon I stepped off the ground and in my head there was no turning back. The scariest part of the whole climb is in the first twenty feet because you only get one piece of gear in at about 10 feet up, so if you fall before getting your second piece you'd probably hit the ground. Once you get your second piece in the scariness isn't really over either, because now you're climbing another 10 feet higher essentially only protected by one piece of protection. It isn't until about half way up (and after the crux) that you get a bomber #1 Camalot. At this point you're starting to feel secure, and now it's just about fighting the pump and not making any mistakes. The whole climb is very committing to lead, and without the right mental state and gear it would be a disaster. Luckily for Andy and I the climb was a great success and we both achieved climbing our hardest trad climb to date. Crushed it!

Our only friend Jason Molina crushing the moves on TR.

All of this photos and climbing stories wouldn't have been possible or quite the same without our only friend Jason. He is always down to climb with us even when that means giving us consecutive belays so we can get better photos. Thanks to his patient and bomber belays we are able to keep pushing our selves while getting some photo documentation of it all too. Thanks Jason!

Bringing a ladder to the crag (to shoot from) crushed peoples perception of hiking.

Now go out and crush or be crushed!

A weekend in Red Rocks

2011-10-12T00:27:00.000-07:00

Andy Hansen nearing the top of "Suffering Cats"

Last weekend Zak and Beth came up to Las Vegas from Flagstaff to see the new place and to spend some time climbing in Red Rock Canyon. Their visit created a great opportunity for our house to gather together and climb at the same crag for a day. So on Saturday we all hiked the beautiful trail through Calico Basin into a crag called "Sunny and Steep". As one would expect, the climbing here is in the sun for most of the day and the climbing terrain is steep and pumpy. The crag sits on top of a very large flat sandstone ledge that provides ample space to sit back and rest while you watch others climb all around. I started my day on a just-for-fun 5.8 called "Sport Chimney" and finished the day working 12a's until I was too exhausted to even hang onto my hat! (It blew away in the wind.) The whole day was a blast and provided me with what seemed like endless great climbing, great views and great company. But with all these lovely distractions I managed to forget one important thing... shooting some photos! Luckily my companion Andy Hansen was there to pick up the camera and get some climbing shots from the day.

Andy Hansen shot this photo of me on "Gimmie Back My Bullets"

So the next day brought yet another beautiful climbing day with friends in the Red Rocks. We left the house and decided to check out a few different crags in the Second Pullout of the 13 Mile Loop. We came to the conclusion that we'd warm up on a few routes at the "Sweet Pain Wall" and then move onto "Kitty Crag" and perhaps "The Sandbox". All the climbing areas we had in mind were within a 10 minute hike of each other and each had something new to offer. Sweet Pain is (mostly) shady crag with many good lines. Most of the routes range in difficulty between 5.10-5.12- but there are a few exceptions. So after everyone warmed up on two routes the decision was made to wander over and check out what "Kitty Crag" had to offer.

Bethany Julka gives "Suffering Cats" a burn in the warm Fall sun.

We knew we were at the right crag when we spotted the prominent finger crack/flake going 30 feet the left side of the wall. It was then I knew that this line would not only be a really fun line to climb, but it would also be great to photograph. So without much delay I started unpacking and I got harnessed up to climb the route just to the right of the aesthetic finger crack/flake that I wanted to shoot. After getting to the anchors I hauled up my camera and rappelled into position to shoot. The sun was hot and bright but still provided pretty pleasant light on the climber and wall. It was a fun challenge to try and compose a shot by anticipating the climbers moves on a route I'd never seen before. Overall the shots all turned out really cool, and I really glad we decided to check a crag I hadn't been to before.

Andy Hansen above the crux.

But considering I live here in the desert this could just be another standard weekend of climbing and photographing for me. Although I've been here almost a month I've spent most of my time climbing rather than photographing. So in the months to come I hope to spend a significantly more time shooting climbing in this beautiful place. I think some long multipitch photography sessions are in order...

Guide and Photo Session in Boulder Colorado

2011-10-06T21:06:00.000-07:00

Justin lowers off the "Happy Hour Crag" in Boulder Canyon

While we were in Boulder, Andy Hansen and I had an opportunity to put one of our many business ideas into practice for the first time. Unlike some of our previous business ideas (lawn mowing/hair cuts, lemonade and vodka stand, excellent sandwich making company, and cups for rent) we've actually been thinking more seriously about one. We've often discussed the idea of combining our two career interests (photography and climbing guide) into one activity and service to be utilized simultaneously. The perfect scenario being that the clients are interested in being professionally guided by Andy, while their climbing experiences are professionally photographed by yours truly. This formula has always been on the forefront of our minds, but until recently has gone relatively untested.

Justin takes a moment to realize that climbing does indeed rule.

Anne works her way up a layback flake.

Anne cruises another granite "Happy Hour" corner.

So as it all works out, some of Andy's guide clients from Wisconsin were looking to make a trip out to Boulder to do some more outdoor climbing. Coincidentally Andy and I were both planning on being in Boulder during the same time frame. So after some discussion and planning, arrangements were made for Andy to be an official "Guest Guide" through the Boulder Rock Club. The club would facilitate the day by providing rental gear for the clients, legal coverage, important yet uninteresting stuff, etc. So the date was set and Andy chose the perfect crag for the job... "Happy Hour Crag" in Boulder Canyon. We went there to climb a few days prior and climbed most of the moderate routes to get our hands on our first Colorado granite. It was all fun and easily protected tradition climbs with a great view the whole time. The stage was set...

Justin approaches the next piece to be cleaned on the way up.

Anne stands up on this balancey ledge. Awesome!

So Andy woke up early to meet the clients at the BRC and head to the crag to get the day started. I followed shortly after with my camera gear, rope, rack and ascenders to set up my own rig just next to the climbs they would be doing. When I got there they were all nice and warmed up and loving every minute of it. I walked up and around to the top of the cliff where I could set up my own line and drop down to begin shooting. I hung about 50 feet up for an hour at a time and was able to shoot them on two different climbs. Although this day was a perfect opportunity for Andy and I to work together and turn an idea into a reality, the reality was I was still just photographing rock climbing for the joy and challenge it provides me. I made up a CD with my favorite images from the day to send to Justin and Anne as a great keepsake from their trip out to Boulder, but until Andy and I work together more specifically on our business idea I will remain "unemployed" for this type specific form of climbing photography. The whole idea is still very exciting to me and I hope that soon we'll be able to make it happen. Until then I will continue to shoot climbing for the simply reasons that I've known since the first time I picked up a camera.

On the Way to Vegas...

2011-09-15T21:19:00.000-07:00

Driving...

The Craggin' Wagon packed up and filled with gas.

Myself on my thousandth attempt of "Standard Bulge" V5/V6

Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon CO.

You can watch the video above...

Ian Hill attempts "Cage Free" V11

Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon CO

Climbing on granite wears down the finger tips.

Both Andy and my cams piled up and ready to head to Indian Creek for a day or two.

Untitled-2,12, 9

2011-07-23T14:35:00.000-07:00

A few more photos from bike rides and the first recent roll on the Olympus-35RC.

Untitled-3

2011-07-22T12:15:00.000-07:00

Lately I've been taking an old Olympus 35-RC around with me biking. The camera just stays clipped to my belt with a small carabiner and it easy to grab and shoot while riding. I like using the old film camera because of it simple functions and compact ruggedness. The camera has no built in light meter, so all of the exposures have to be evaluated and selected by your best judgement. Also you focus the camera by distance and before every shot you estimate your distance from the subject and then move the focus ring to that number. (It ranges from 3 feet - 15+ feet.) Every roll that goes through this camera is a surprise, and I enjoy the variety of shots that can be captured and juxtaposed.

Climbing Photography Clinic Day at Devils Lake.

2011-06-29T09:23:00.000-07:00

Andy Hansen on "Breakfast of Champions" 5.9+

After two days of discussion, preparation, and practice in the gym the Climbing Photography Clinic participants Peter and Giulia where ready to get the full experience of shooting climbers outside. So for the third and final day of the clinic we set out to the west bluff of Devils Lake to shoot the classic routes on The Lost Face, as well as "Son of Great Chimney" and "Stuck Knee". Conveniently the routes are near each other, but offer distinctively different challenges and approaches when it comes to photographing them. So we woke up early, packed gear, and hiked the approach. Soon after anchors were set a plan was hatched to shoot Andy and Josh on the Lost Face overhangs. Both photographers rigged up a line to shoot from and the decision was made to break up the 90 foot route into two pitches for a greater opportunity to get some really unique photos.

Overhead view of the clinic photographers and climbers on the Lost Face.
Yes, I can levitate...

Peter Beck shoots Andy Hansen and Josh Knapp pitching out the Lost Face overhangs.

Giulia Bartolotta gets rigged up to shoot the Lost Face.

The lighting this morning offered some common photographic challenges. Although it was still early in the day, the sun was high and there were little clouds in the sky to diffuse the light. The photographers dealt with the challenge of metering and selecting the best exposure to shoot the bright rock. As time passed the light became a little more diffused by some thin clouds appeared overhead. The lighting became more even and the shooters and climbers rejoiced. Soon after we gathered our things and moved over to shoot "Stuck Knee" and "Son of Great Chimney". We started with the off-width "Stuck Knee" which is an especially unique climb because it can be shot from both sides. Peter set up to shoot the climber directly, and Giulia set up the shoot the climber looking through the big off-width crack. The big gear required, difficulty of off-width climbing, and ability to shoot multiple angles made this climb a great choice for photos.

Peter Beck shooting Ryan Strong on "Stuck Knee" 5.7

Giulia Bartolotta shooting Ryan through the offwidth crack on "Stuck Knee" 5.7

We wrapped up the day by moving down to shoot "Son of Great Chimney" a classic Devils Lake 5.11c that offers many aesthetic photographic angles. Peter rigged a line to shoot from around the corner, and Giulia shot from the top of an adjacent pillar. The group worked on the different challenges of shooting several climbers on top rope instead of on the sharp end lead climbing. Peter also worked to refine his use of an aid climbing hook to use as a directional while shooting. Guilia enjoyed the comforts of shooting a quality angle from the comfort of a huge ledge.

Peter Beck lowers in to shoot the classic "Son of Great Chimney"

Peter Beck works on getting a hook placement for a directional.
Does it hold?

So with the third day of the Climbing Photo Clinic wrapping up we were all excited to go back to our computers and take a look at all the new images and compare results. I am yet to see many of the groups shots on a full screen, but I am excited to see how the class used what they've learned from the clinic and to see the final results. I would like to put together a small show/exhibit of the work from the clinic to be hung in the gym so the work can be viewed in print by all. Until then I'll do my best to keep everyone updated and share some links when/if Peter and Giulia post their photos online.

For all of those who wished they could have signed up or had scheduling conflicts for the first photography clinic I would like to put on another clinic in the Fall. There are no determined dates and it all depends on your interest! So please keep let me know if you're interested in signing up or have any questions about future clinics. Thanks to Peter and Giulia for making this clinic a blast, and I hope to see you guys out there shooting!

The Dream Team makes the front page...

2011-06-21T20:07:00.000-07:00

The dream team makes the front page of rockclimbing.com! Although its not yet an article about our ground breaking first ascents in Red Rocks, it is a photo I took of Andy Hansen climbing Thoroughfare 5.11a at Devil's Lake this spring. It was a great day of climbing for the two of us, both sending this route first try of the season. And as a bonus it's always fun to see your own photo on the front of a website. Lets keep 'em coming! Hopefully more to come...

Photos of MBEC Bouldering Finals Posted

2011-06-20T19:56:00.000-07:00

View from the top of the wall. Who's gonna grab that finish hold?

Here are a few of my favorite shots from Adventure Rock's first annual Member BBQ and Bouldering comp. I am super psyched with how they turned out, and of course shooting them was a fun and challenging experience. The lighting was tricky but for the most part really helped make the photos exciting. The white light(s) illuminating the wall also lit the climber and really helped to give the climber definition and provided what photographers refer to as "rim light". The bright contrasting colors of the wall and holds certainly help the photos pop. Well done to all the climbers and Adventure Rock for pulling it all together. For more photos check out my Flickr Photostream.

Annaleah Fields sticks the dyno and prepares for the next moves on Route 3.

Annaleah Fields attempts the crux move on Route 2

Jake Fields is so close and he can feel it! Dyno on Route 3

Ian Hill attempt a mondo bump move on Route 3.

Minda Silvestre eyes up the finish hold on Route 1.

Maddie Rafkin working out the moves on Route 3.

Find the complete collection on my Flickr Photostream.

MBEC Finals and BBQ

2011-06-19T18:55:00.000-07:00

Here are some video highlights from Adventure Rock's 1st Annual Member BBQ and MBEC Bouldering finals! The climbing was strong, the pork was tasty. and the tunes were bumpin'. A great time was had by all, and the photos look pretty slick as well. Check back soon to see the photos.

Matt Kuehl Presents: Climbing Photography Clinic

2011-05-21T09:59:00.001-07:00

I am excited to announce the dates of my first educational brain child... a climbing photography clinic! This three-day clinic is designed to transform your climbing photography from butt-shot to cover shot. Geared towards climbers with an interest in photography and the desire to develop the skills and techniques required to capture better shots in the vertical world. This course will begin with the fundamentals of photography, ascending, and rope access inside Adventure Rock and will progress to intermediate and advanced shooting and rigging techniques working outdoors at Devil’s Lake. Participants are required to have their own DSLR, harness, and personal anchor system to attend the clinic. Upon completion of the clinic participants photos will be printed and displayed in Adventure Rock.

Clinic Overview

Day One: Wednesday June 15th 5:30pm-9:30pm

Photography fundamentals are explored. Content includes camera functions, exposure, metering, focus, depth of field, focal length, lighting and digital workflow. Rope access fundamentals will also are explored. Topics include ascending single and double ropes, rappelling with the use of a backup device, and specific positioning on the wall for shooting photos.

Day Two: Wednesday June 22nd 5:30pm-9:30pm

Get ready for an intense and exciting day getting practice shooting while hanging and ascending. Rope access and shooting exercises explored. Gain experience setting up your camera and rope(s) for three separate shooting environments in the gym. Practice ascending with several different set ups and photograph climbers while working together in a team to get the best possible shots. Advanced positioning topics explored such as the use of multiple directional lines, setting up a bosman's chair while hanging, and fighting the spins on overhanging terrain.

Day Three: Sunday June 26th at Devil’s Lake 8am-4pm

Gain the full experience of being a climbing photographer by hiking in, hauling gear, finding the light, dealing with elements and rigging your line. Apply previously learned techniques to make informed decisions on how to deal with the challenges of photographing several different climbs unique to the Devil's Lake environment. Set up anchors (with guidance) and embrace the outdoor specific challenges and topics that will be explored. Climb, ascend, photograph and enjoy the great outdoors on this capstone day.

You can sign up for this clinic at the front desk at Adventure Rock, or give the gym a call at 262.790.6800. There is a limit of 9 participants for so sign up before all the spots are filled!

Life Findings Occasionally Edible...

2011-05-14T14:59:00.000-07:00

The local nature reserve in my hometown has always been my favorite places to send my free time. As a kid I went there with my best friend Jon, who lived even closer to it than I did. We'd ride our small sized bmx bikes equipped with the disproportionate pegs for standing on the back; we'd often ride both on the same bike just to be extra cool. Jon and I would adventure into the woods with nothing more than baggy jeans and a loaded imagination. The freedom we felt in the "wild" was classic, and all the cuts, ripped jeans, and mysterious bug bites felt like a right of passage for us 12 year old adventure seekers. Our mental map of the area grew larger with every trek into the unknown, and eventually we found ourselves making some pretty "impressive" discoveries in which I still oddly relate to today.

Our first big discovery were the heaps of metal scrap and old tires that we found on the very east side of the reserve just about 40 feet off the trail. Here we found old washing machines, huge truck tires, and a bathtub sprinkled with mysteriously abundant bullet holes. At some point later we discovered a fully functional metal shovel by the base of a tree in the center of the reserve, and later a broom stick nearby. It seemed that the more time we spent exploring, the more we would discover and the more we would gain. Another notable discovery was a living possum in a downed tree over a river that we were climbing near the entrance. Although the hissing was moderately intimidating, it didn't prevent us from getting a nice up close and personal look at the strange creature. (Shortly after we discovered that possums have pretty nasty looking teeth.) But with each new discovery came a unexpected unique learning experience, and I guess in short I still enjoy that rush today...

The first major search for me in 2011 took place starting in the month of April. The warming spring temps meant many things in the world, but to me it meant the arrival of one of my favorite mushrooms, the Great Morel! This year I could better anticipate the window for their arrival, and I wanted to make sure I was there when they first popped. As many know the Morel's only grow in specific conditions for about three weeks in the early spring. One of their preferred growing conditions is in limestone rich soil near/in the decaying roots of dead trees. So my search began by scouting my location for dead and dying elm and ash trees, a Morel mushroom's favorite. After spotting what seemed like a large amount of dying trees I started noting other living and sprouting plant life. At first there wasn't much of any new growth, and I knew it would be a while before the Morels made an appearance. Eventually as time progressed I saw the first plants breach the soil's surface. Among the short swamp grass was the easily identifiable Mayapple, which sprouts quickly and in patches. Morel's and Mayapples seem to get along and their arrival meant that the Morels would soon to follow...

So after a month of quiet observation and a lot of eager anticipation I ventured into the woods for what I hoped, might be the day the Morel would reveal itself to me once again. After searching for about an hour I was about to call it off and started walking back. Sure enough within the first thirty feet of my retreat I spotted the first Morel of the season. I was refreshed and excited; my search began all over again. Every mushroom hunter knows that where there is one, there are others near. So I stayed put after spotting numero uno, and looked around from my single vantage point and sure enough, I spotted one more, then two more, and that's when I started collecting and enjoying the first successful moments of a long search. I continued to search the terrain for more of the similar dying elms, soil conditions, and topography. After about another 45 minutes I had collected a respectable amount, and I deemed my findings worthy of taking home to be prepped for my next meal!

Once home I washed the Morels in warm water to get rid of any unwanted critters and dirt. At this point they begin to look extra delicious, and the temptation to eat them raw is at an all time high. Although I have friends who have eaten them raw, all of the material I have read clearly states not to eat the mushrooms uncooked, so I always play it safe and sauté them up in a meal. I typically like to have the Morels with some type of rice and fish with extra veggies. At this point in the game it is all subjective and creativity is always an option in how you choose to prepare them. Last year I (tried) breading whole mushrooms to be eaten individually, as well as dehydrating them in the oven for longer life span for use in meals throughout the year. And although this year I haven't found enough to save, I certainly was able to cook the ones I found in a few different ways.

Frying the Morel's in butter is an easy and flavorful method of cooking.

Baked Morel's and pizza, oh yeah!

The spring isn't over yet, but with the strange season and temperature changes I'm not sure I'll be able to find as many Morels as I did last year. It is disappointing to not be able to cook up and share the mushrooms with as many people as previously, but like always the hunt is addictive and captivating. My eye is becoming much more skilled at locating mushrooms of all types, and within the last year I have spotted over a half dozen different mushrooms growing locally, most of which can be eaten. This year I hope to to do a little more research into the other varieties around, and I am looking forward to doing my first spore print to positively identify some of the trickier looking mushrooms. Like the mushrooms themselves my interest in the hunt has come unexpectedly, but their presence has added yet another item to the list of things to love about spring.

Variety and Perpetual Options

2011-05-04T11:02:00.001-07:00

Over about a week's time I've continued to work on several different mini projects. I didn't notice when I was working on them individually how drastically different they each are. I guess it just goes to show the wide range of capabilities of photography especially with the new addition of video to most Digital SLR's. At times it seems the possibilities are nearly endless as long as you can keep thinking of new things to try.

"Perpetual Options"

My first project is a continuation of my music and video collaboration I am experimenting with. The idea started as a way to integrate music I enjoy making with video I enjoy making. Simple enough right? The two processes have shown major differences in work flow and the creative process, but I have found the two can meld together very well and have some surprising results. The video above joins two separate audio and video tracks that are both completely unedited. The music was created by me in my basement using a Bass and loop pedal in a one shot recording and the video was recorded with my DSLR at my friend Dave's house while he layered video inputs and channels over one another on his TV. Together the two make a curious and engaging show that I find stimulating for your mind.

Another completely unrelated job was a portrait/beach photo session I had with my friend Kelsey. She was looking to update her modeling portfolio for an upcoming audition and needed some new summer pictures. Although I was strategically looking at the weather to pick the right day and time the temps were still just around 50 degrees and it was windy. I chose to shoot this in the early evening in hopes of catching that "warm" light as the sun is coming down. This turned out to be the right decision and I think the photos reflect that choice. I was also using an on camera flash to help add a little bit of fill light on the subject. A fun shoot with some unique challenges that differ slightly from shooting rock and ice climbers... I think I could get used to the change.

Last but maybe least is a little portrait session I had with myself. This photo shoot was also pretty different from most of my portraits. As an example the last time I wore this suit for a self portrait I had a lamp shade on my head. But the times they are a changin' and I need some specific examples of lighting for a potential one day portrait shoot for a Milwaukee based consulting company. Hopefully they like what they see and I'll get the gig. All in all this week has been a lot of fun. I am sure that this variety is what keeps you most prepared when doing the things you want to pursue even more. Every new shoot provides new opportunities, and I'm sure in this line of work the next one will be completely different. Anyone need some photos?

Spring Fever and Site Updates

2011-04-19T22:06:00.000-07:00

Ideal spring weather is just around the corner and I couldn't be more excited for the conditions the rejuvenating spring weather will bring. Lately it has been a lot of rain and sleet coming down, but I am confident the wet conditions will drastically transform the great outdoors into a simply refreshing place to once again explore. I am especially looking forward to the one year anniversary of an unexpectedly profound moment from my life last year which I can best describe as "48 Hours Free". Since another year has passed I am proud to say I am becoming more in touch with the natural flora and fauna of Wisconsin, and I am quite eager to continue searching for new sprouting plants and fungi in the warmer months to come. In stride with the new growth of spring, I am also planning on expanding some of the content of my blog to cover more than just climbing and photography. I feel that I've been updating less recently do to some potential repetition in my "blogged" content. I'm still going to be embracing my main passions directly in the blog, but I'm also hoping to focus on some of the lesser known experiences in my life that are equally important to me in the big picture.

One of my newest and most eclectic pursuits is a video and music project in which I document myself in the process of making improvised music with a bass and loop pedal. All the shots are live and one-take only (just like the music). I've been finding there are many challenges to overcome before a "final" video will make its way online to be viewed in full. Regardless the process is constantly exciting and ever evolving. For this project I am using two different cameras simultaneously to document the action, one camera being my DSLR and the other being the built in camera in my Mac. The two couldn't be any more different to use, but I welcome the opportunity to try and integrate them. The entire process is based on improvisation which is something I have found essential to my understanding of the ever changing world around me that I willingly participate in.

Also, some of my photos will be featured on the new Figure Four Climbing Hold's website. I was excited to load the page for the first time and see one of my shots from Quick on the Draw right away. I am glad the shoots have a home there, and although the photo is neat I think most people are far more interested in those huge mustache holds! They're still getting the website up and running, but everyone should check out all the different shapes because they are truly fun to climb on. I have also updated my own website with some new rock climbing photos and will be adding to the freelance section in the near future. So while its still a little cold and rainy outside don't feel bad surfing the web for a little longer to check out the updates. But once it's nice out you better join me outside!

Andy Hansen: Climber, Linguist, and Part-Time Model

2011-04-07T19:43:00.000-07:00

Andy Hansen surfs the flake on "Headstone Surfer" 5.10a

Funk Rock City, RRG, KY.

Above the flake and into the dihedral of "Headstone Surfer"

Doing his best piranha impression on "Hardcore Jollies" 5.12a

Funk Rock City, RRG, KY

Working out the beta before his first 5.12a send of "Surpress the Rage"

Sunnyside, RRG, KY.

Fighting the pump on "Twinkie" 5.12a

Phantasia Wall, RRG, KY.

Recollecting his thoughts after the whipper. To boink or not to boink...

Return from the Red River Gorge

2011-03-28T12:06:00.000-07:00

Andy Hansen on "Hardcore Jollies" 5.12a

Funk Rock City, RRG, Kentucky

I have just returned from a climbing and photographing trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. The warming spring temps meant it was time to get climbing, so Andy Hansen and I packed up my station wagon with food and climbing gear and ventured out for a ten day adventure. The trip would be out longest to the Red and we were both very excited to try and tick off many sends, and also photograph some of our favorite lines. The climbing was to include many 5.12 sport climbs such as "Suppress the Rage" 5.12a and "Orange Juice" 5.12c but as well as several 5.11 tradition lines such as "B3" 5.11b and "Synchronicity" 5.11a. We had hopes of climbing harder than we had been able to do previously, and we figured over the ten days we'd have some time to work more diligently on some of the routes. The weather for a majority of the trip was sunny and warm, but eventually the temps cooled and some rain came in for the last couple days. But regardless of dropping temps, the stone was there to be climbing, and we gave it our damnedest.

Walking around barefoot felt like summer. Need I say more?

The Craggin' Wagon in the parking lot of Miguel's.

"Home sweet home" for ten days thanks to some handmade curtains.

Our home was an '89 Buick station wagon, our kitchen was a wobbly picnic table, and our job was to rock climb. Life was good, and the photos and videos reflect this. So as I gather myself and attempt to adjust back to regular life here in Wisconsin I will be editing photos for a more thorough photo post in the near future. I can't wait to share some new Red River Gorge photos, as well as some beer drinkin' hillbilly stories that will leave you askin' "How'd ya git up there ya crazy kid!?"

Photo Restoration / Time Travel

2011-03-06T10:14:00.000-08:00

The final image after restoration.

The original print.

My first restoration project is complete! Believe it or not I'm actually looking forward to another project like this. The process was meticulous at times but also consistently rewarding. With every hour of work the original would become more and more clear and vibrant... and if you're feeling psychedelic, I equate the experience to traveling back in the time. In addition to restoring the blemishes, colors, and levels/contrast, I also scanned the image at a high resolution, allowing the now restored print to be enlarged to 13" x 19" instead of its original 3" x 4". By and by this was a fun project that has lead to learning a few new editing tricks and work flow solutions in Photoshop.

As a (somewhat sarcastic) side note: I anticipate in the future I will be contacted by many of today's youth to restore their once trendy "hipstamatic" prints taken via "smart phone". For those unaware this cell phone application allows the user (usually featured in most of the photos) to add preset aging such as faded and tweaked colors, scratches, light leaks, and "film" boarders that give the photos a faux vintage or low-fi film look. I hope someday to make a living restoring their fake old photos into what will finally be, just a bad cell phone photo.

MIAD Photography Silent Auction

2011-03-03T16:33:00.000-08:00

This print up for bid!

I recently contributed a print for a silent auction organized by the current Senior Photography Majors at MIAD. The auction is to help support this year's seniors put together a print publication of their thesis work. The auction is tomorrow so if you're downtown, please come show your support.

March 4th, 2011

6pm - 10pm

712 N Milwaukee St.

Milwaukee, WI. 53202

(2nd Floor of Planet Bead)

Event on 88.9's Website

Natural Light Leaks

2011-03-01T12:00:00.000-08:00

Entering the Laundry Room

A few different light sources leak through open doors and windows to project a wonderful display in my basement.

8,000 Photos later...

2011-02-27T19:46:00.001-08:00

I have recently been hired by VisionBeam Action Photography to help shoot and document a variety of sporting events happening here in Wisconsin. I spent three full days photographing gymnastics last weekend, and this weekend brought a basketball tournament. The challenge of photographing a new variety of action sports outside of rock and ice climbing has brought new incite and innovations. After the first two shoots I have already added a few items to my photography arsenal. Some of the unexpected yet priceless additions were a small hunting stool for sitting low and moving easily, kneepads (for kneeling obviously), and earplugs to dampen to onslaught of whistles, buzzers yelling parents, and repetitious music. I have found these items to be the little luxuries that make the shoots run smooth... Beyond getting a great opportunity to document these events I am humbled by the mental and physical endurance needed to shoot perpetually for multiple days in a row.

Red River Reunion 2011

2011-02-17T14:17:00.001-08:00

Poster Design: Emily Rubin

My photo of Eddie Avallone on "Cutthroat" 5.13a was used for this year's Red River Reunion poster. (Top Photo) I will be getting down to Kentucky at the end of March and am looking forward to seeing this poster hanging around. It seems everyone I know is looking forward to being able to get down to the Red this spring to get on one project or another. Lets welcome the warmer temps because spring is just around the corner!

Photo Slide Show Extravaganza!

2011-02-14T11:07:00.000-08:00

Andy Miers on the Breathe Right 5.11c, Red River Gorge, KY.

Taken during my first "photography only" trip to the Red.

I have been asked by Adventure Rock climbing gym to do a slideshow sharing climbing photos and stories from the last few years. The slideshow will be presented on "Media Night" during the gyms 13th anniversary week. I will be telling my favorite climbing stories and experiences from several different climbing endeavors from the last few years. Some of the stories to be explored will be road tripping and multi pitch climbing in Red Rocks Nevada, my hardest trad on-sight attempt in the Red River Gorge, and other shenanigans about trying to live the dirt bag climber's dream. (Including but not limited to foot-shaking, whipper-taking, coffee-making, tent-breaking, finger-acheing, hand-shaking, and house-faking)

Those of you out there who have been reading the blog for a while will recognize a story here and there, but like always thats just the tip of the ice berg. So tell your friends and come out to the gym for what's sure to be an interesting slideshow experience. This event is free!!!

Wednesday February 16th, 2011 7pm-8ish

Adventure Rock Climbing Gym

21250 W. Capitol Dr.

Pewaukee, WI. 53072

Photo Restoration Project

2011-02-12T11:15:00.000-08:00

Out of the blue I was asked to restore an old and aged print for a friend of mine through the climbing gym. The photo was shot by her husband many years ago and it is one of her personal favorite images. The print itself was significantly aged and had very faded colors as well as being physically damaged. I was excited to work on this project because I could tell how much the photo meant to her. For this same reason I was nervous to take the project on because its not my "expertise" and I really wanted to succeed in restoring it. I've been pulling out all the stops in hopes of getting the restored photo to look as close to new as possible. So after many hours of starring at the screen I am excited to say that this project is almost complete and looking really great. With permission from the owner I might do a side-by-side comparison blog post of the before and after images later on.

Stag Barbershop: Mustache Shaving Party

2011-02-09T11:08:00.001-08:00

In preparation for the 12th Annual Quick on the Draw climbing competition the men of Adventure Rock visited Stag Barbershop in Bayview for a classic shave. Each year the gym has a new theme for this competition, and this year's just happened to be mustaches. I think most people were pretty excited, although some still perplexed by this manly decision. Either way we knew we'd need a professional and classy shave in order to be contenders in the best mustache competition. So plans were made to visit Stag, and we all waited patiently for our upper lip hair to grow. And as time passed we left no mustache style un-googled in our growing excitement and preparation for the big shave.

A Stag Barbershop Stag

I have visited Stag once before to get a haircut from my fiend Sarah, who just got a job working there. From the moment I walked into the place I could tell that I wasn't in for a typical haircut experience. I had only had my hair cut once since I cut off all of my dreads with a regular scissors while camping in the woods. Walking into Stag I felt like I had just discovered a mecca of Milwaukee class and style and in the confines of the small and aged building. Right away I knew that I was in for a treat as well as a stylish haircut! Before I knew it I was enjoying a nice cold Pabst and the company of three classy gals, Sarah, Robin and Jess. After getting my first haircut at Stag done entirely with a straight razor, I had been immediately transformed from your everyday slob-slum looking bum with halfa-mullet, to an outstanding slob-someone with a non-bum haircut. What can I say, I didn't even leave with a new set of jeans or t-shirt, but that haircut looked good and I smelt nice! Everything just fell into place...

Sarah working on Rory's stache with Robin trimming up Danny in the background.

Owner Jess Stern giving Craig a nice, professional, and sophisticated stache.

After being so impressed with my first visit to Stag, I knew I had to spread the word to my friends about this gem in Bayview. I was confident that they would think my barbershop transformation was a success, as well as an entertaining story and perhaps they'd be down to go check it out someday. One of the first people I saw was Craig Burzynski, manager and funny-man of Adventure Rock climbing gym where I am a loyal employee. I told Craig about how rad it was to go to a barbershop for the first time, especially after all of the years of having long dreadlocks. I mentioned I was planning on going to get my mustache worked on before Quick on the Draw so that I could fulfill my dream of having a mustache worth noticing. Craig thought it was a great idea, and he wanted in. Before we knew it the word had spread around the climbing gym like the chalk that circulates with the air, and a mustache shaving party was born.

Soon the day had come, were the blade met the skin, and the faces of eight men were to become new again. What once was a group of bearded ape-like men was to now been transformed with the simple grace and discipline of a straight razor. And you might be asking yourself "Well where are they now after the shave, and how has their mustache blessed them?" And I assure you the men who once spent their time climbing the walls of the local climbing gym have now been spotted in the most sophisticated and upholding of establishments and organizations.

Craig Burzynski sports his new look.

With his new stache, Craig is now considered to be everyone's favorite (and trusted) uncle, regardless of any legitimate relation to his new "family" at the local super market.

David Nimmer gives us his version of "Blue Steel"

No longer having a chunk of "tree sap" stuck in his hair, David Nimmer has jump-started his modeling career and is reported to have a major portfolio review with Maytag in the

near future.

Mark Nimmer leaner and meaner than ever.

Mark Nimmer, now better known as has"Johny Stache" became the new face of the WWF with his new found self confidence after sporting his new stache in his first ever wrestling match tie.

Peter Beck might make you look like a fool.

Peter Beck is the brain child for VH1's new hit series "The World Wide Web's Most Outrageous Uploads!" where he has worked his way up from comment poster to head-criticizer of popular youtube videos.

Danny Clifford has the authority and might just use it.

Danny Clifford has also fulfilled his lifelong goal of becoming a stunt double's double on the popular TV show Reno 911, where he also works on-set security part time.

Rory Trainor is just having the time of his life and wants you to know.

Rory Trainor is now a trainee for peanut salesman position for the peanut super company Planters, where he sees himself having a salty yet sweet relationship with the manufactured peanut corporation for many years to come.

A big thanks to the women of Stag for giving all of us an opportunity to fulfill our dreams and to give us the confidence to pursue the toughest and most mustache dependent of lifestyles. A little off the top, and a little over the top indeed!

Live Painting Session

2011-02-06T18:23:00.000-08:00

It Begins...

The Stage.

Next time I thought he should paint over there huge TV Screen.

Near Complete.

This Photo: Justin Reinders

Some quick shots from Andrew Azad's live painting session last night during WhyB's Dj set at the Jackalope Lounj in Milwaukee's Third Ward. An interesting experience to say the least and I'm looking forward to more of these in the future.

Quick on the Draw Photos Published

2011-02-04T10:17:00.000-08:00

Click here for the Quick on the Draw 2011 photo slideshow

My photos from Adventure Rock's 12th annual Quick on the Draw climbing competition are now published on the gym's website. I'm excited to have the photos in an area that many people will be able to view beyond the blog. In addition to the photos being posted on the Adventure Rock website, I will also being doing a Flickr upload in the near future to help create a more up to date photostream. So check out the Adventure Rock website and spread the word that the competition photos are posted. Enjoy!

Time Lapse Project: Cream City Stencil

2011-01-31T22:53:00.000-08:00

Cream City Stencil from Justin Reinders on Vimeo.

After a month or so of collaborative editing with Justin Reinders and Andrew

Azad, the time lapse project is now complete! A while back I had the opportunity to

document friend and fellow artist Andrew Azad's installation stencil piece at Cream

City Skatepark in Butler, Wisconsin. The painting came together over two days and

could be pieced together with around 300 photographs, and approximately 3 hours of

video. The editing for this project was far more intensive than we could have imagined,

and compiling such a large amount of photos and video into a shortened version was a

time consuming task to say the least. Seeing this come together from a blank wall to a

completed painting, video, and integrated and skate-able part of the skatepark is really

exciting and well worth the time we put into it. I am sure we will be working together

again in the near future, and I'm looking forward to what future collaborative projects

will bring!

Quick on The Draw Preview

2011-01-30T17:47:00.000-08:00

Alex Nimmer sticks the jump start to Men's Open finals.

The last week in January is quickly coming to an end and that means I've been busy busy busy! The 12th annual Quick on The Draw climbing competition at Adventure Rock climbing was last night and I spent the better portion of my week helping to prepare routes for the gym's largest competition of the year. Beyond route setting and gym preparation I also was working on making my mustache as manly and prominent as possible in consideration of this year's mustache theme. Luckily for me this meant realizing a life-long dream of sporting a mustache worth noticing. This also brought some additional fun in the month of "Manuary" when the boys and men of Adventure Rock decided to go to Stag barbershop in Bay view to get our stache's tamed and/or enhanced before the big event. But with little distraction, let the teaser photos continue...

Women's Open Finals

All the finals routes were a big success, take note of the mustache holds made custom by Figure Four Climbing Holds.

Lindsey Gram cool, calm and collected on the Women's Advanced final route.

Heel hooks a plenty!

Loved seeing people get on this boulder problem!

A completely packed house as usual.

But wait! There's more!

Check back soon for complete photo posts on Quick on The Draw 2011

and the events that lead up to it.... I will also be updating my Flickr photostream

with all of the photos as soon as the editing and selection is complete.

Find me on Flickr!

2011-01-21T11:39:00.001-08:00

I have updated my Flickr photostream with images from this years ice climbing festival at The Pit. I am using my Flickr as a means of sharing a large quantity of the photos I shot at the fest, which will hopefully allow more people to find images they like of themselves and people they might know. I'll also be updating my blog and website with some of my favorite's from the weekend, so take some time those out in the upcoming days. To access my photostream simply click the link above... Or copy and paste the URL into your browser. Enjoy! and feel free to contact me if you're interested in the high resolution files or prints of the event.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28172431@N04/

Return from this weekend at The Ice Pit

2011-01-16T21:03:00.000-08:00

After a highly enjoyable weekend at the Ice Pit, I have returned with a computer full of new photos and a head full of ideas. As expected the 2nd annual Midwest Ice Climbers Festival at The Pit was bigger and better than last year and I was told there were 200+ climbers in attendance. The weather was ideal and after a light snow Friday evening the Pit was starting to look a lot less like a... well, pit I guess. The blue sky and wispy clouds made for an aesthetic and relatively well lit two days of climbing, and the temps even managed to stay in the double digits. So now I will be working diligently to edit and upload all of my photos from the weekend , and beyond posting my favorites to my blog and website, I will be creating a Flickr account where I will post most all of the 2011 festival photos for people to look though and enjoy. I am hoping this will be an easy way for people to find photos I may have taken of them, as well as just enjoy a larger amount of the photos I spent two days shooting. When this is complete I will post the link to this blog as well as the Ice Pit's facebook page. For now here are three photos from the weekend to help pass the work week and to keep the festival fun fresh in your head.

Peter Beck gives ice climbing a try during his first day at The Pit.

A great turnout means many belayers... but don't forget, they want to climb too.

Patrick Bodien doesn't mind flying ice chunks, in fact I think he likes it.

Thanks to all of the Ice Pit members, climbers, belayers, sponsors, vendors, speakers, and hotel housekeepers for making this event possible and helping keep ice climbing in the midwest a radical endeavor. Cheers!

2nd Annual Midwest Ice Climber's Festival at The Pit

2011-01-12T20:07:00.000-08:00

This weekend I will be traveling to Wisconsin's own Ice Pit for the 2nd annual Midwest Ice Climber's festival. Just like last year I am excited to be photographing the event both days and am super psyched to see what another year at The Pit will bring! Last year five of the photos were presented in my Senior Thesis Exhibition at the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design where they were awarded best in show in Photography. The feedback and support from this initial body of work has been more than encouraging, and I started this season with many goals. This year a selection of my thesis work, as well as a few additional prints will be on display during the festival's "after party" at the Ramada Inn. During this time there will be talks from climbers John Hansen of Wautoma, Eric Landmann of Madison, and an informal roundtable discussion with climber and first ascentionist James Loveridge. Beyond the talks there will also be a gear swap, gear raffle, and free beer! My prints will be on display for this one night only, and I'll be available for climbing and photo discussions to whoever is interested in chatting. I look forward to seeing some familiar faces, as well as meeting as many new midwestern climbers as possible... so Cheers! and lets get out there and do something great together this weekend!

A Second Look

2011-01-07T00:17:00.000-08:00

Recently I've been taking a look through a lot of my photos from climbing in the Red River Gorge over the last few years. I've been hoping to better organize them, as well as being able take a second look for goodies I may have previously overlooked. It's great to look through all the (barely) old images from the two trips there in the fall of 2009 when I really committed to going on my first "photo trips" instead of just climbing. I am finding a lot of exciting shots that seemed to slip past me at the time, but not anymore!

I am also working on starting a small collection of images to submit to Ray Ellington for the next edition of the Red River Gorge Guidebook, whenever it may come out. Along with this process I have been submitting images to websites such as www.rockclimbing.com and www.mountainproject.com to share with the general climbing community for feedback and beta photos. So far the reception has been good, but it is an on going process in which I hope will yield some good feedback and future opportunities. So next time you're looking through climbing photos online to get psyched while ignoring the fact that you're at work, I hope you can daydream while looking at a few of mine.

Time Lapse Teaser

2010-12-29T22:06:00.000-08:00

Last week I photographed artist Andrew Azad working on a large stencil/spray paint installation at the Cream City Skatepark near Milwaukee. The painting was done over a two day period and is created with four colors. The stencil pattern itself is basic in design, but grows in complexity when several layers are added in with multiple colors. As the work grew and the pattern multiplied it gained a unique intensity that at times was overwhelming and I found it hard to look away. I found the process, as well as the final piece to be very entrancing and ornate.

I set out to photograph a time lapse series of the entire piece being created, so I could later compile the images into a high-speed installation video. I quickly found myself following Andrew's step by step processes and way of working with the paint and stencils. Before I knew it my own self assigned photo time lapse project had become entirely entrancing within itself. So it is there in the skatepark that I stood with a camera held to my face, anxiously awaiting the next step to occur and for the next element of the pattern to reveal itself.

The time lapse series is nearing its complete after processing a few hundred images and figuring out a way to make them act like a video. With a little trial and error I was soon able to create a "rough draft" of what I imagined the series to be presented. Together Andrew Azad, Justin Reinders, and myself will be compiling efforts for the final video piece which will intergrade photography, video and music. I'm suer excited about this project and will be posting the video as soon as it is all said and done.

Sandstone Ice Festival 2010

2010-12-20T12:09:00.001-08:00

It's been just under one week after my return from the ice climbing festival in Sandstone Minnesota and I am just begining to take my first big bite out of the image processing and editing from the trip. It's great to have an opportunity to shoot several hundred photos in a single day and as it becomes a more frequent occurrence I hope to become a more efficient editor and organizer. In the mean time I will keep reminding myself that the turtle always beats the hare, and that slowing down my editing process always seems to increase quality. This post will consist of some of my favorites climbing shots from the weekend, as well as handful from winter camping and the festival party on Saturday night. Enjoy!

We arrived in Sandstone before the rumored epic snowfall was scheduled to begin. Our original plan was to stay the night in Menomonee Wisconsin on our way to Sandstone, but after a brief stop and checking the radar, we decided our only option was to continue that night. It was anticipated that the roads could receive a foot of snow overnight, and we worried that we'd be stuck in Menomonee for the weekend. This decision turned out to potentially save our weekend and also meant we got to spend another night camping! The three of us were excited to camp from the very beginning, and adding another night just meant one more night to have some winter fun. When we arrived at the park it was already night, and we drove around eventually find other people camping, and some even walking around in headlamps and layers down clothing. We were a little unsure where we should set up camp, but soon ran into a camper who had invited us to camp next to his quinzhee, which we soon found out is what most people would relate to as a snow cave. This area was conveniently located near a river, which provided that relaxing water sound, as well as still being only a few hundred feet from where the ice climbing was. We set up our tents and got bundled up under layers of down sleeping bags. I set off to into my tent and set up my strange little room and started boiling water to make some hot tea before bed. It became clear to me then that winter camping was a rewarding challenge, and I felt good knowing this patch of snow in the woods would be our beloved home from the next two days.

I woke up very warm in my sleeping bags, and I survived the night and even got some good rest. I reluctantly wiggled out of my bags and partially sat up to greet the soon-to-be vertical world. Already I could see steam coming from my body and quickly dissipating into the cold morning air. I knew getting completely out of my sleeping bag would be very refreshing to say the least. I gathered some courage and my coffee making supplies and committed to the morning outside. I opened my tent door to beautiful warming sun, fresh air, and plenty of untouched northern Minnesota snow. As I was walking around stretching my legs I found the quinzhee still in tact, but this time inside it sat my two friends Patrick and Ellen, who had woke up just before me and decided the (now abandoned) quinzhee would make a perfect breakfast abode. We gladly fit our three bodies into the one man cave and started working on preparing hot oatmeal, tea and coffee. The heat started to accumulate quickly in the cave and soon I had forgotten all about my tent and sleeping bag.

(enlarged on website)

The night had brought us about 6-10 inches of snow and it continued to fall the entire first day of climbing. I was personally excited to shoot and climb in the snow because I thought it might give the photos a new look that I hadn't previously encountered yet. In addition I was looking to test of my new camera and was curious to its ability to shoot in "less-than-ideal" weather conditions. When I first arrived at the ice the clinics were just wrapping up, and after a few brief conversations I was in the clear to hang a rope and start shooting. It's always encouraging when people are willing to help out and are excited to have me shoot, it makes the entire process a lot more fun, and I think the photographs really flourish. But of course before I'd have any opportunity to take a photo, there was work to be done. In order to hang my own rope to shoot from, I needed to climb up and top out so I could rig a new anchor at the very top. In most scenarios I'd usual like to "warm up" a bit, and have my first climb not really matter, but in the interest of time I decided to attempt to on-sight my first ice climb of the season while also trailing a rope to be hung. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't afraid I'd botch it up, but I guess I must have learned enough from last years ice climbing experiences and I successfully toped out the climb. Then of course the really scary part was not the climbing, but getting to haul my new camera up an ice wall on the end of a rope!

From the top I had a lot of options as far as photography goes. With little gear I could set an anchor almost anywhere along the cliff's edge, as well as just simply walk around up top and around the corner to get shots from further back and off the ground. When photographing I am constantly looking for new angles and contemplating ways to get myself in a position to make a great image. At times this can be intensive rigging and hanging for hours, while others this means simply walking around and finding natural vantage points. I'd like to think the two approaches work together. I'm still learning some of the tricks to shooting ice climbing and by using several different approaches I am able to shoot a lot of photos, as well get a better idea of what I feel is most successful and in what application it could best function, i.e. websites, blogs, prints, or magazines. Every shoot continues to be learning experience that seems to yield progressively more ideas for the next shoot that is hopefully just around the corner.

Of course before my day of photographing was done there was physical work that I needed to do, and this meant more climbing! At times this aspect of my photography work is extremely fun, and other times it can be quite a pain, and today would be no exception. I geared up to do my last climb of the day, which beyond climbing would involve me topping out and cleaning the anchor and rope that I hung earlier in the day. I was excited to climb and went into it quite enthusiastically before I realized that my hands were colder than normal, and that my miss-matched old school isotoner gloves were pretty damp, and I was quickly struggling to maintain feeling in my hands. Knowing I had to complete my ascent, I decided to go with the "climb as fast as you can" approach. This approach seemed flawless; with the exception that the climb I was on was considerably more difficult than the terrain on my previous climb. I had to stop and shake out a few times, attempting to fight the building "pump" in my arms, and also trying to regain feeling in my hands. With little success I decided to go back to the climb fast technique, and before you could say "hypothermic frost bite" I had reached the top and was standing eagerly attempting to put my warmer mittens on. I struggled to locate the finger holes inside the mittens because of complete lack of feeing in my hands, and just putting my hand inside a mitten seemed dire. Eventually my hands were nestled in the warmth of the dry mittens, and I hunkered down and prepared myself for what would soon be the worst "screaming barfies" of my life. For those who are unfamiliar with this expression, it is used to describe the feeling when circulation and feeling is regained to numb and near frost bitten appendages such as fingers and toes. (The expression itself should give an indication to the level of temporary pain that can be reached.) Soon I was in the worst discomfort in years, and I sat moaning to myself for ten minutes while I waited for the infamous screaming barfies to pass... and when it did I continued to clean my anchor and shoot photos from the top for another hour or so before returning back to the ground for a much anticipated dinner.

When I got back to camp I heard Ellen yell "Matt!?" and I followed the warm sounding voice toward Patrick's two-man three-season tent. When I peaked inside I found two people covered in what looked like millions of layers of down, and a stove lit in the vestibule with some boiling water to help thaw out the home made soup from inside a mostly frozen Nalgene bottle. They invited me into the small tent, and I couldn't resist the offer. I took of my boots and crampons but with my harness still on I entered the tent. I soon found myself also covered under a pile of down comforters and jackets, nestled somewhere between their feet and the tent wall. It is here that we lay together and utilized the collective warmth of three bodies while dinner was heating, and continued our warm relaxation even for an hour or so after it was all done.

Myself, Patrick, Ellen and Jon enjoying the Sandstone nightlife.

After the warmer season was complete and our heat comas had subsided we were ready for the evening's festivities. There was a gear-swap, fireworks, raffle prizes and drinks to be had all before the night were to be complete. The Sandstone Ice Festival had brought together an impressive list of sponsors who had donated prizes from coffee to crampons and even two super nice down jackets! They had also organized fireworks to be launched just off the main drag street in Sandstone, conveniently just across the street from the pub where the after party was. It was quite the show, and I am certain I have never seen fireworks of that size so up close and personal, not to mention so close to the ground on main street next to a lumber yard! Very exciting!

After meeting a ton of really great people at the event party and sharing many stories, it was time to head back to our camp and bundle into my sleeping bags. I had decided earlier in the evening that I couldn't let the opportunity to sleep in a snow cave pass me by, so I quickly moved my sleeping accommodations into the dark and chilly Minnesota quinzhee. I lit myself a candle for addition light and a little warmth while I melted some snow for the evening's hot tea before bed. It was here I embraced my first winter camping experience most boldly, and when I woke my only regret was having not made the quinzhee myself. Like always, there is something to look forward to next year...

Quinzhee, sweet Quinzhee!

Two Show Updates

2010-12-20T11:26:00.000-08:00

I am glad to announce the installation of seven prints at Adventure Rock Climbing Gym in Pewaukee Wisconsin. The prints consist of six ice climbing prints from Wisconsin, as well as one rock climbing print from the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. These prints will be installed until January 31st, 2011. These prints are available for purchase in sizes 11x16, 16x24, and 24x36 and are available framed or unframed, prices range based on size and materials.

I am also excited to announce that I will be displaying these ice climbing prints at the 2011 Ice Pit climbing festival in De Pere WI. The prints will be on display the night of the 15th during the events gear swap, raffle, and free beer gathering at the Ramada Inn. I will have a small table set up with more information about my photographic work, as well as slide show displaying more of my work for those who are curious. The prints will be available for purchase, and a percentage of the sales will be donated to The Ice Pit directly, so why resist!

Return From Sandstone Minnesota

2010-12-14T12:05:00.000-08:00

I have returned safely from my extended weekend journey to Sandstone Minnesota to photograph, camp, and climb at the Sandstone Ice Festival. I am glad to announce that even with multiple days of being outside and temperatures eventually dropping to -11º on Saturday night, I have successfully kept all of my fingers and toes intact. I'd like to start off by thanking the festival organizers and sponsors for helping put on such a great event! I am continually impressed by the climbing communities ability to bring people together who share in a common excitement for the great outdoors while continuing the longevity of the sport and its participants. I will be processing photos quickly and soon uploading images to my website as well as doing blog post/trip report about the four days on the road. Please check back often for photos and stories and feel free to share this link with friends and other climbers from across the globe or across the gym... as always I love to hear your feedback.

The Winter Way

2010-12-07T22:03:00.000-08:00

I've always been one to believe that if you don't like winter, its because you're not spending enough time outside experiencing it. Some people may find this idea irrational or overplayed... and of course I enjoy bundling up inside and ignoring the freezing reality outside too, but the idea is a simple one. To enjoy something you must experience it for what it is unaffected. It wasn't in my immediate adulthood that I came to terms with this but perhaps I was close to understanding as a child and early teenager. Like most I used to play in the snow for hours, at times even scrapping all the snow and ice off the sidewalk so I could still ride my rollerblades. When I was younger I never viewed the snow and cold temperatures as an inconvenience, but rather a new challenge to overcome or embrace. When I grew out of the rollerblades there was my snowboard waiting for me, when my feet grew too large for my boots I had just received my drivers license, and when the roads got boring there was always plenty of unplowed parking lots to practice doughnuts in... But after a few years of permission from the state to drive, I had realized I had been sucked deep into a trap of monotony and over convenience. Driving was no longer fun; it had become a necessary evil, my chore, and my vex.

The bicycle soon became my means of year round transportation, and winter was now my newest and most inspiring of challenges. My daily commute was longer than it had ever been during my years of growing up at home, and I now preferred to pedal the distance in the same time some would spend heating up their car. Don't get me wrong, not everyday was monumental and celebrated, but as the years passed and the wheel's stayed spinning I had reached a significant understanding of the winter season.

I write this now with a new excitement having just spent the better half of my evening daydreaming about hitching a ride to Sandstone, MN to photograph ice climbing and endure winter camping in the north. A strange thing to be excited about when I break it down and think about the logistics of the whole task I'm about to attempt... I have no winter tent, and the tent I do have has a broken pole adhered together with duct-tape. I am in possession of no ice climbing gear with the exception of a climbing harness and rope with the basic things it takes to photograph. I've never winter camped before, not to mention I'm not even sure where Sandstone MN is. BUT when I ignore this details and think with the more important part of my brain I'm actually in a pretty good place... I've photographed ice climbing before. This will be a great opportunity to start the season off. I have two sleeping bags. I won't have to go to work. I get to experience an entire new reality. And I'll be able to fulfill my ambitions of embracing the winter as a source of inspiration and tranquility. Sounds like an adventure to me, I'll make sure to bring my notebook...

Another Bike Inovation

2010-12-03T15:51:00.000-08:00

I've seen this great bicycle/lawn mower a few times while biking though Okauchee. Today I decided to bike there and bring the camera so I could share it. I'm a huge fan of anything involving a bike and this Frankenstein lawn mower bike is certainly no exception. The bicycle is a very simple machine that can be easily adapted into new mini inventions and strange bikes, anyone with a little welding experience and creativity can make their own freak bike. So what are you waiting for? Lets go for a ride!

First Snow on the Back Roads

2010-12-01T21:24:00.000-08:00

First real snow I've seen this winter in Wisconsin.

Devils Lake Boulder and Photo Session

2010-11-28T20:47:00.000-08:00

Frost on the windshield on the beloved craggin' wagon.

Tony Brengosz and I took an early morning drive to Devils Lake to spend the day bouldering and soaking up what's left of the fall temperatures here in Wisconsin. When I left my house the thermometer displayed 25° F, but once we arrived the temps had increased slightly and the sun was out to keep us relatively warm all day. We drove to the North Shore parking lot and after only a ten minute hike we were getting our shoes on for a warm up climb. We first went to an area called "Greatest Bluff" which was home to a handful of fun sandstone boulder problems in the area ranging from V0-V9. We started by warming up on an unnamed arete problem rated V0 and then quickly moved on the "Gay Gigolo" V2.

Arete V0

The crux move on "Gay Gigolo" V2.

The sandstone here was pretty textured and had a lot of neat features which were fun to climb on. This was my first experience bouldering on sandstone at the lake, but I felt slightly prepared being pretty familiar with the classic trad climbing here at "Old Sandstone." Tony has a lot more experience bouldering around these parts than I do, and today he acted as a guild of sorts to show me some of the more aesthetic boulder problems at the park. Today would not only mark my first time bouldering at the lake, but also the first time shooting climbing with the 5D mark II. Like every photoshoot there was a lot of experimenting and trial and error, but funny enough the biggest crux of the new camera was turning off the two second self timer that accidently got turned on... always bring the manual!

Tony B. on "Slippery Seam" V4

After checking out a few other areas near by we took a walk over to the Monolith area, which is home to some taller more intimidating lines. My personal favorite of the day (to photograph) was "Sex and Chocolate" v6. This line featured a seemingly featureless arete that went up to a slopey ledge to a difficult looking topout, in other words it looked totally awesome! I really wanted to get the right angle to shoot this problem. I wanted to showcase the arete and avoid making it look like a face climb while also illustrating the overall height and commitment it looked like it needed to be completed. I looked around for options, and after a little bit of effort I ended up with a unique vantage point while being nestled precariously in a bendy tree. My personal favorite shot of the day...

"Sex and Chocolate" V6

From this vantage point I was also able to capture a video of Tony getting a repeat send of this problem. I'm still becoming familiar with the finer workings of the video capability on the 5D mark II, but look forward to gathering some footage and making short videos here and there to keep the blog new and exciting. Beyond documenting the repeat send here, I was also able to film the send of "Slope of Dadaism" V3 and "Pillar of Contemporary Movement" V4... Nice work Tony! Anyone have any recommendations for video editing software?

Tony comes off "Pillar of Contemporary Movement" V4

A stellar day at the lake once again, and even though I was bouldering I still managed to end up hang dogging in my harness. Much thanks to Tony B. for agreeing to be photographed instead of being spotted by me for most of the day, and a big high-five to the Wisconsin weather for letting us get out and shoot some more rock climbing before the season finally turns and the water freezes in anticipation of being climbed.

US Bank Building Update

2010-11-25T12:26:00.000-08:00

Over the last month I've had a original print from my thesis exhibition "Boreal Exposure" on display in Wisconsin's tallest building, the US Bank building. My work, as well as the work of a small handful of seniors was selected during the MIAD 2010 Senior Thesis Exhibition to be displayed for a month period sometime over the summer. The show was delayed slightly, but was installed and on display from October 19 - November 19. In addition to the print inside, MIAD made a reproduction print of another image from the series to be displayed in a street level window. The work is located on Vanburen and Clybourn, or just after the first stoplight after getting off I-94 via the Vanburen exit. I don't think the window display will be coming down anytime soon, so take a gander next time you head downtown.

The US Bank Building is located at 777 E. Wisconsin Ave, Milwaukee, WI. 53202

Beginning to shoot Adventure Rock Photos

2010-11-24T20:11:00.000-08:00

I've started working on some photos for Adventure Rock Climbing Gym, which I've been eagerly awaiting to start after the arrival of my new camera. The projects have a handful of different applications and purposes so some are for safety, some are for promotion, and some just for updating the website and Facebook page. The first project I started working on is specifically for several vertical banners which are to be located and moved around the gym. The purpose of the banners is to promote common sense and safety while using the gym's very popular auto-belay systems. My current personal favorite is an image of human chalk outline on the ground next to the climbing wall with an autobelay. The poster will read something like "Check Yourself ... Before You Wreck Yourself." For the shot I used a Tilt/Shift lens to help ad (literal) focus to the auto-belay, while creating a overall more dramatic depth of field to the scene. This banner, although being very serious in its content, is presented in a way that will moderately entertaining, and thus making it easy to remember and potentially very successful. I'm excited to share this shot, but I am going to hold off posting a photo until it's been finalized, and sent off to be printed.

The second project I've been working on is getting photos of the staff setting routes, as well as actual shots of individuals climbing the new routes. I'm hoping to use these images on the website as a way of creating excitement about new and fun routes to help excite even the most couch glued of climbing bums. So far I've been enjoying how quickly it is to envision these shots, as well as actually achieve them. With 17 different auto-belays and over 25 pre-hung top ropes in the main gym alone, getting into the right position is considerably easier than when shooting in the great outdoors.

I'll be continuing work on these two initial projects in the next few weeks as I start to become more familiar with my new camera and the lighting in the gym itself. The next project in the immediate future will be to shoot portraits of the core staff to be included on the website as well. As always more photos and updates to come...

Glorious Butt Shots

2010-11-16T15:28:00.000-08:00

One last trip down to the Red River Gorge as the summer and fall wind down and winter begins. This is probably the latest I've traveled to the Red to climb, and I don't think I'd hesitate to take the drive again. The rock was a bit cold at some crags but we occasionally got lucky and were able to follow the sun to several warm crags. This will also be the first major trip of the year where I was in the company of multiple climbers in the same place. The photographer in me tells me to grab the ascender and GriGri, look for the light, and get ready to hang for hours shooting ever angle I can pull myself into. Although this is tempting within itself, the climber in me has a way of coming out in the diminishing fall temperatures. So on the other hand, the climber in me tells me to bundle up, do some jumping jacks, squeeze into my cold shoes, and see if I can hang upside down from my feet mid climb... Although I want to continuously pursue climbing photography without slowing down, I am aware that my enjoyment of the sport directly reflects why I choose to pursue it seriously in the first place. Sometimes I'm an ambitious aspiring adventure photographer, and others I'm just a big kid with a rope attached to him for safety. Some days I can control myself better than others... these are my favorite butt shots from the short trip.

Andy Hansen being lowerd off "Breakfast Burrito" 5.10d

at Drive-By Crag, Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

Andy Hansen en route.

"Breakfast Burrito" 5.10d at Drive-By Crag, Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

Andy Mires on "Tikka Monster" 5.13a

Drive-By Crag, Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

Dave Neill on "Whipstocking" 5.11a

at Drive-By Crag, Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

Yours truly, just trying to blend in on one of my my favorite 11's

"Whipstocking" 5.11a Drive-By Crag, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Brio Show Recap

2010-10-23T12:30:00.000-07:00

The Brio show was a great success! A big thanks to everyone who came out to see the work and who stopped to chat with me about the work, your interest is certainly appreciated. The show wouldn't have possible without the hard work of Aryn Kressol and the other artists Marta Shumylo and Erin Kirkpatrick. So make sure you take a minute to view their sites and take a peak at the new work coming just around the corner.

My work on the brick walls of Brio.

The work of Marta Shumylo.

The work of Erin Kirkpatrick.

Trip Report: Shenanigans

2010-10-14T17:45:00.000-07:00

Three Holga exposures from a day well spent lounging in the Virgin River.

Zion National Park Utah.

Tentless Camping in Zion.

Taken with on camera flash, headlamp, and roughly 45 second of exposure.

The majority of the exposure the camera was laying on the ground towards the stars giving a cool double exposure look.

Chicago, Illinois

(Thats enough words for once, now just enjoy the photographs.)

Trip Report: Sour Mash and Windy Rappel Epics

2010-10-05T16:12:00.000-07:00

The Black Velvet Wall tops out at '1200 feet, and is home to excellent bolted, mixed, and tradition climbs such as Prince of Darkness, Sour Mash, and Epinephrine.

Photo: Matt Kuehl

It was our second day climbing on the Black Velvet Wall, and today we were determined to move more efficiently. We had expected our first day to be an adjustment day, and after sitting in a car for two days we knew we'd be moving slower, not to mention it was our first multipitch climb together as a team. There weren't any crucial mistakes on day one, but rather just some unnecessary hang-ups. Frequently tangled double ropes, extremely sore and numb feet, and running out of water before the last pitch were just a few of the problems we encountered. The route we climbed day one was "Prince of Darkness" 5.10d, and it was well protected with bolts after the first pitch, and the risk of long dangerous falls was pretty much out of the picture. We had picked this route for this very reason, and we knew it would be a safe climb to "warm up" on, while getting all the kinks worked out in our multipitch communication and team work.

A topo map of the Black Velvet Wall found at the base.

Photo and find: Andy Hansen

Day two meant improvements and efficiency. We had already done the approach, and knew we could hike to the wall in 45 minutes without getting lost. We brought more water and food to fuel us along the way. We were both feeling well energized for another full day, the only exception being that I still couldn't feel either of my big toes due to mild nerve damage because of the relentless small foot holds on "Prince of Darkness" the day before. Today we were going to attempt "Sour Mash" 5.10a. It featured seven pitches of mixed and tradition pitches, and we hoped it would present us with a much different climbing style than what we had just endured the day before. Being a tradition/mixed climb meant that there was a little more risk due to the lack of permanent protection on several of the pitches, as well as being more difficult to navigate. Tradition climbs such as this require the climbers to place their own gear in the cracks and features of the rock to clip the rope into as they progress upwards. Traditional climbing is the heart and soul of rock climbing. The pioneers of sport were all traditional climbers well before the mass production and development of more sophisticated climbing gear. Climbing in this traditional way gave climbers a versatile way to use temporary protection on untouched rock and was the most common way to achieve ascents that had previously been unclimbed. Although this type of climbing is not the only option that exists today, it is still extremely popular and a fundamental element to the sport of rock climbing. "Sour Mash" felt like a mix of several climbing eras and skill sets; but I just deemed it classic. The route utilized a nice mix of tradition climbing pitches, with a little added security at points because of the (mostly) bolted anchors and several bolts placed on route in sections of the rock to protect the sometimes crack-less terrain. But enough about climbing lets talk about EPICS.

I love apples... 'nuff said.

Photo: Andy Hansen

After pulling through the excellent crux sixth pitch, Andy and I had decided to lower and call it a day. We enjoyed the view of Vegas in the distance from a small ledge about '650 feet off the deck as we coiled up our ropes and prepared for a rappel. At this point in the day, the winds had picked up significantly, and beyond making it difficult to communicate, the wind was blowing our gear and us wherever it well pleased. We soon got adjusted as much as we could to the wind and each ate an apple, we threw our ropes for a pretty standard rappel down to the next anchors about '200 feet below. Our ropes didn't get tangled much and even with the wind the toss was pretty good. Andy decided to rap off first, and we continue on with high ambitions that this rappel would go smoothly, even with the high winds. I watched Andy descend, and took time to look for Longhorn Sheep, which we had been hearing and watching from lower on the route. But after about ten minutes of enjoying the view, I knew something wasn't right. I tried to tug on the ropes to see what was going on, but they were still taunt from Andy's weight. So I yelled down at Andy. No response at first, but then after a few attempts my voice managed to penetrate the howling winds. Andy's voice was barely audible, and I wasn't sure what the problem was, I was just hoping he could anchor in direct to the wall, so he could go off-rappel and I could rappel down to figure things out. When I got lower down, Andy said that the rappel anchor was a few feet below the reach of our ropes. I was pretty surprised our relatively new 60m ropes wouldn't reach, after all, that is the standard rope length and is what most rappels are bolted for. We brainstormed on what to do, and decided to build a simple anchor with gear, also utilizing one bolt, to act as an intermediate point between rappels. The process was cumbersome, but at least one other crisis avoided.

Not down yet. Stuck ropes force us off the rappel line.

Photo: Andy Hansen

Once we got situated at the next rappel station, I decided I would rap off first. We didn't let the anchor problem get us down, and we kept level heads and kept progressing downward. The wind was as strong as ever, and I wasn't even half a rope length down when things started to get interesting again. The wind had blown one of our ropes into a large crack about 30-40 feet to the left of our anticipated rappel line, which is generally straight down. I had no choice but tofollow the ropes, and traverse over in an attempt to free to stuck ropes end. To my surprise, I found a set of anchors not far from where the rope was stuck, so after working my way over on the wall, I was able to anchor directly into the wall and use both my hands to frantically whip, thrash, pull, yank, and tug the rope until it was free. I was relieved the rope was no longer stuck because I knew I would have otherwise had to cut the rope to free it, which means ruining a rope just to get down. Thinking pretty positively, I yelled back to Andy to come rappel down to me. I don't think he could actually here me, but since we were still able to see each other I could wave the ropes to show the slack illustrating I was off rappel. Although our rappel line had been changed because of the wind, I was confident we would see more anchors on our way down, otherwise our ropes might just be long enough to get directly to the ground. Either way I was relieved that our rope was free, and it seemed as if everything would continue as normal, we just had to improvise a new rappel line, which didn't seem terribly difficult because of the high number of routes on the wall. Spirits were high, and we were relieved I didn't have to use the knife to free our rope, at least not yet...

The view back up after rappelling over the ominous roof of "Fiddler on the Roof"

Photo: Matt Kuehl

I rapped first from the anchors again. This time around I tied the ends of the rope to my harness so they wouldn't get stuck in any cracks, and so it was still impossible to rappel off the ends of the rope. Already I felt like we were getting the hang of rappelling in the wind, every hang up meant another forced innovation and brainteaser like puzzle to solve on the spot. I knew this next rappel would be scary because it went directly over a large roof, resulting in a free hanging rappel away from the safety and potential anchors of the wall. I knew this would be the crux of the rappel, and that it was crucial for me to evaluate how much rope I had left so I wouldn't be hanging in mid air with no rope to descend further. Just above the roof I took the ends off my harness and tied knots in the end, then tossed them down over the edge and watched how far they reached. To my disappointment they didn't reach the ground. I now had a difficult decision to make, either ascend the rope by the means of a prusik knot all the way to the last anchors I saw, or rap the roof and hope for anchors below...

Another look at the roof.

Photo taken the next day: Andy Hansen

I choose to rappel the roof, being well aware of the risk of being stuck dangling at the ends of my rope with little chance or getting back to the wall. I also knew that the angle of the wall was just less than vertical, meaning the further I descended my ropes over the roof, the closer I would be to the wall again. I took a risk, and hoped I wouldn't pay the price. I looked around for anchors while simultaneously enjoying the free rappel. I didn't see any bolted anchors, but did notice a slung chock stone boulder in a large vertical crevasse as I was nearing the ends. I immediately swung over to them, and knew that this would be the anchor that would get our feet back on the ground. I added a new sling and biner to the chock stone and prepared to get off rappel. At this point I was at the very ends of my rope, with nothing to spare. The winds were still high, and I held on to the ends of the rope with all of my concentration so they wouldn't blow away and leave me stranded. Andy rappelled down shortly after and enjoyed rapping over the roof too. I told him there were no bolts to anchor in here, but I found a chock stone that was clearly used to rappel the rest of the way down. At this point I had placed the widest piece of gear I had (#3.5 Camalot) as an addition anchor point. I told him it wasn't ideal but it needed to be used to rappel off and that it clearly had been used in the past. Andy didn't seem fond of the anchor, or the tight quarters in which our bodies and the block were held. I handed Andy the ends and told him not to let go. We both attempted to reposition and gain some ground so we could adjust to pull and recoil the ropes for the next rappel. In the two second readjustment period, Andy had accidentally let go of one of our ropes, and the wind had quickly blown it just out of reach. He attempted to grab it, but our positioning was terrible because we were nestled in a deep chimney crack. Before we knew it our rope went from just out of reach, to completely out of sight in a matter of seconds. The wind had blown the rope even further away and into a distant crack that immediately swallowed it completely.

There was a moment of silence. This quite moment was our distant tranquility, and our means of staying sane. In an everyday situation this moment would have been filled with profanity, finger pointing, and egos rather than silence and contemplation. We both knew that teamwork and positivity would be the only way to recover from such a mistake. It goes without saying that rock climbing requires an immense amount of individual mental and physical strength and endurance, but without a solid positive relationship and mutual trust with your climbing partner, the team will go nowhere. Like any survival situation, which climbing can sometimes be, it is crucial to maintain a level head and work as a team to best evaluate the situation. So after this brief silence we started brainstorming. The conclusion I could think of was to pull the rope, with the knot still tied in the end. This would result in our rope being stuck at the anchor '200 feet up, but also allow us to get the other rope back down to us, where we could then untie the two ropes from each other, or cut the ropes apart with a knife. I knew this would be the only way to recover any rope to finish the rappel down. Our best option was to abandon one rope on the wall, so that's what we did.

A successful rappel to the ground off The Black Velvet Wall.

Photo: Andy Hansen

Luckily, we were able to pull the rope down far enough were we could reach the center point in which the ropes were initially tied together. This meant we didn't have to cut any bit of the rope, and we were left with one full-length rope for the rest of the rappel. The remainder of the rappel turned out to be around '100 feet to the ground, so our one rope was the perfect length for the job. We attached the rope to the biners that were slung around the chock stone and tossed the rope down. It hit the ground in a magical way that reassured us that we would indeed be hiking out before night, and in Vegas drinking a beer in no time. We left our beloved blue 8.4 double rope dangling from the Pitch 3 anchors that night, and hiked out contemplating our next move. Our spirits remained high during the hike out, and after getting back down to the ground we reevaluated our situation. We had come to terms with the loss of a rope, and that's all it really was. We were in a less than ideal situation, that turned even less ideal by the wind. We worked around it and could almost laugh about it later. In the end we were both just thankful that the wind had not blown both of our ropes out of reach, which would have left us stranded entirely.

Two days later we went back to retrieve the rope, where we found it still hanging from the rappel anchors between the 3rd and 4th pitches of Dream of Wild Turkeys. The weather was clear the two nights and the rope was still hanging on a wall that receives little sun. The rope was untouched and undamaged and deemed fine to continue use.

Show Preparation Nearly Complete

2010-09-28T15:09:00.000-07:00

The mounting and framing is all done for my work in the 3 Cities show this weekend in Rockford Illinois. I'll have seven prints on display, and the work will include rock climbing images from Utah and Kentucky, as well as ice climbing in The Pit in Wisconsin, and not to mention one image from the distant Future being debuted. This body of work was selected by the two organizers of the show, and I think they've picked a diverse and captivating series of images to put on display. Three photos from the show are pictured below...

The Future

Lowering from The Motherload, Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

Ice Fest 2009, De Pere, Wisconsin.

Beyond being time consuming and expensive, the framing process is always an exciting time for me. It has only been in the last year of my life that I have found any of my images in frames. Last years Thesis Show really helped me prepare my work to be displayed in a professional setting, as well as opening up my mind to a lot of new ideas considering how my work can be best displayed in different environments and locations. My photographs are currently being framed pretty traditionally, which encloses them in either black or white metal frames, with 3-4 inch white matte boarder under glass. I find this straight forward look to be a nice way of presenting and protecting the work, while making them easy to transport from show to show.

Think anyone will notice the tape? Photo: Tom Owens

Everything was going quiet smooth, but I have found there are always unexpected

hang ups, and the day I framed was to be no exception. When transporting the

framing materials from the shop to school where I was putting them together,

I managed to snap one of the panes of glass in half. The sound of snapping glass

was unmistakable, and as I carried everything into school I knew I'd already have

to make a trip back to the frame shop for more supplies. Luckily when I assessed

the damage, I had only snapped one pane out of the five, and it was a clean enough

break that I could tape over it and still mount it all so I'd be ready for installation in

Rockford on time. Luckily there was no big delays on my part, and like they say, the

show must go on. Now I just have to quickly swap the broken pane with the new one

just before the show opens this Friday at 4pm. Hope to see some familiar faces out

in Rockford this weekend, so nobody hesitate to come by and say Hey!

Trip Overview and Show Update

2010-09-07T11:11:00.000-07:00

Pitch 2 of "Dream of Wild Turkeys" 5.10a

Las Vegas is 1,793 miles from Milwaukee, and we left around midnight in a Jeep. We set out not for the lavish lights of Vegas, but rather the long rock climbs of Red Rock Canyon and the Black Velvet Wall. I've had my mind on the destination ever since my first visit here last spring when I lead all six pitches of my first multipitch route called "Unimpeachable Groping." It was a fantastic climb that provided me with a powerful escape from the conventions of the world around me. It was here when I took my first multipitch fall due to a broken hand hold at the top of the second pitch, and it was also here I didn't die. When I fell my belayer caught me, the rope didn't break, and I didn't need a change of pants. Everything went perfectly as planned. It was then I realized that all the previous years of climbing were really paying off, and all the years of practice were reinforcing the crucial skills for these exact unexpected moments. The rock climbing that day was arduous and at times, a new kind of scary, but the reward was more immense and unforgettable than I could have imagined. I kept this feeling of liberation and accomplishment with me as the seasons passed, and knew that I would soon return the tall peaks of Red Rock Canyon.

Self Portrait belaying Andy Hansen up to the anchors at Pitch 3 on "Prince of Darkness" 5.10d

I had talked about my idea and excitement to return to Red Rocks with my climbing friend Andy Hansen, and mentioned the idea of taking a trip there in the late summer. He was onboard for it, even if at the time he thought it'd never happen. We started climbing regularly together at Wisconsin's trad-climbing hot spot Devil's Lake, working our way through the list of classic lead climbs, as well as aspiring to lead every artificial rock climb at Adventure Rock in one day. Although some of our goals where a bit bold, some of them we successfully accomplished, and other ideas were only mentioned comedically ever again. Our aspirations were big, and I wouldn't have had it any other way.

The day we left for Red Rocks our tick list of climbs to attempt was still growing, and it had already included five multipitch climbs including a 600' 5.7+ PG13 tradition/free climb called "The Black Dagger", the dubiously-classic "Prince of Darkness" 5.10d, and the most ambitious of them all being the ultra-classic 1000' exposed line of "Levitation 29" 5.11c. We hadn't decided which ones to tackle first, or exactly what the plan of attack would be, but we knew once we arrived that we'd try to start early. We had also planned to do at least one day of sport climbing, and I was excited to revisit The Gallery and Sunny and Steep, and certainly was not going to argue checking out some new areas.

Andy Regar and I on pitch 3 of "Dream of Wild Turkeys" 5.10a

Our home away from home was with a climbing friend of mine Andy Regar, who lived just between the strip and the canyon. We first met at Adventure Rock many years ago, and we've always talked about going out climbing together, but never managed it in Wisconsin. So I gave him a call and before I knew it, we had a solid place to stay. It was a perfect opportunity to hang in with and old friend in Vegas, as well meet many of his friends, and do some epic multipitching together.

Even before we got to Vegas the trip had its fair share of mini epics, and before we crossed the Wisconsin boarder we nearly hit a deer at 70 mph on the interstate. We were overjoyed the trip was collision free, but we still had a long ways to go. After being awake all day and driving all night, we were exhausted. I managed to keep the car on the road after the sun came up, but after an hour of alone time with Andy sleeping shotgun, I had to pull over and sleep. I stopped at the small mill town of Cassie Iowa, where our temporary sanctuary was a gas station parking lot. The nap went off with out any problems... until I tried to start the car back up. Being in a sleepy state of mind, I went to recline my car seat for a snooze and zonked out in no time. Evidently I had forgot to turn the lights off on the car while it was parked and the battery had died. But after the short delay, and talking with some friendly locals, we were back on the road.

Pit Stop in Castle Rock, Colorado just before dark for some impromptu bouldering.

We rolled into Colorado for some heavily anticipated rest at a friend's of Andy's. They lived in Castle Rock, and it was a pretty cool town with a predominant rock bluff that was visible from most everywhere in the city. It was here we decided to get out and go for a hike to go see the rock formation ourselves, and along the way we did some casual bouldering to get our climbing minds warmed up. The rock was pretty poor, but it was great to see new stone, and imagine developing new lines to climb. We got on top of the bluff with little more than some simple hiking and 30' of class four terrain. Once on top we had a great view of the mountain town, as well as the interesting christmas decoration style stuff they choose to stick on top of the bluff all year long.

The next morning we left for the second push of our drive, and the next stop was officially Vegas. We were both excited for this part of the drive, not only were we soon to arrive, but driving through this part of the country is really interesting when compared to the great plains. The mountains, wildlife, and lack of law enforcement made the drive pretty entertaining. Our sprits were high, and despite being pretty tired, we arrived at Andy Regar's around 9:30pm. We got to catch up with Andy, and met his roommate Lucas, who were both climbers and glad to have us around (so it seemed). We had plans to go out and do "Prince of Darkness" the next day, so after about two hours of getting adjusted, we were snoozing and ready to hit the Black Velvet Wall first thing the next day.

I will write much more in depth about the details of this trip, including a stories of the epic three hour night descent of Juniper Peak, a wind storm rappel leading to stuck ropes off the Black Velvet Wall, and the arrival of Jason and Jeni Corning into Las Vegas for our road trip home. Without a doubt I will have an entire post about our collective four day trip back home, including our underwear river PBR lounge day in the Virgin River in Zion, Utah, as well as three nights of tentless camping out west, and not to mention piano playing on Pearl Street in Boulder, Colorado. Many stories to come...

[SHOW UPDATES]

I've been invited to participate in my first out of state show by friend and old classmate Aryn Kresol, who is organizing and curating the exhibit. I will have seven prints on display, including work featuring ice climbing, rock climbing, and odd city occurrences. The show is open two days only, and will be taking place in Rockford, Illinois as part of the Fall Art Scene.

stARTrevolution presents: 3 Cities

A collective exhibition of artists from Chicago, Milwaukee and Rockford including photographers Marta Shumylo, Matt Kuehl and Erin Kirkpatrick.

October 1 - October 2

5pm - 12am

Brio Bar and Resutrant

515 East State Street

Rockford, IL 61104

View Map

Bike Polo and No Sleep For the Bear

2010-07-26T11:02:00.000-07:00

The summer is without a doubt in full force, and being a recent college graduate and fun-loving phenom means that to me, summer will never end. So far I've been catching up on some missed climbing opportunities, and have been guiding and climbing regularly at Wisconsin's own Devil's Lake state park. I definitely feel like I am getting a stronger connection with the unique rock here, and because of this have become a stronger climber all around. While in Milwaukee I have been doing my best to play bike polo regularly again, and have been feeling (at least for a while) like I've never played better. Its great to get back on the court and really give it a good go, every game is a new challenge and provides me with many exciting near misses, real misses and plenty of spills.

I took a weekend off to attend the North American Hardcourt Bike Polo Tournament held in Madison, WI. Here I was able to meet up with polo players from around the country, and even from as far as Australia and France, as well friends from Milwaukee and Madison. The competition was serious, but the off court conversation was friendly and I got to play in several pick up games that were going on throughout the three days. The temperatures were through the roof in the relentless sun, and it was easy to get exhausted with all the biking, sweating, and free Ale Asylum. On the first day one of Meg's friends gave me a disposable camera... it had 13 photos left on it that were quickly snapped away by many folks.

This tournament was only my second, and first outside of Milwaukee. It was an excellent time and once again I had a great time hanging with anyone with a bicycle and a moment to chat. I met so many great players and entertaining people, and I am excited for the next tournament to come around the bend so I can do it all again. Next time I hope to get a team of friends together to compete, lets see if I can handle all those games in a weekend!

While back in Milwaukee I was contacted by my friends in No Sleep For the Bear for a last minute photo shoot for their press kit and website. They were really open to my ideas, and after a short brainstorming session we compiled a few guidelines for successful images. The list was pretty entertaining, and the main guidelines were... no sexy eyes, no jump kicks, and no cut off t-shirts (unless everyone is wearing a cut off t-shirt). The list continued in this fashion, and the more and more we narrowed down the "lame" ideas, we thought of some seemingly less lame ideas to try.

The photo shoot was made easier by everyone just jumping into my station wagon and just driving around the city. We had our eye out for interesting street murals where I hoped to photograph the band playing a game of Jacks on the sidewalk. As always the ideas evolved with every turn, and one location would lead to another idea, and in the end a totally different photo. Overall we just improvised and tried to make the shoot a fun time, along with getting some not-to-cliche images along the way. So we followed our guidelines, and I kept snapping away...

In the end the above image turned out to be my personal favorite. The mural we found looked to be painted by children who attended the school is was near, and the mural was home to some really interesting imagery of historic people and places. All we had to do was walk up and down the painted wall looking for interesting renderings or people in the background to shoot in front of. We thought the one of The Beatles would be an interesting match, as well as the colors being relatively varied all around.

We ventured onward and into the school playground, and gravitated towards a fence with a decent view of the city in the background. The lighting was pretty good, and waiting to shoot later in the day was certainly a strategic move on my part. The sun filled in the foreground with even light, which was warm and not over dramatic or too bright. I wanted to do a shot of them all sitting on top of the fence with only sky in the background, but because of the drop off on the other side, the band was a little reluctant to take this risk. We did a few of them climbing on the fence, but I liked the more straight forward look in the end. Overall the shoot was a good time, and a fun challenge and learning experience to do on such a short notice. I wouldn't say shooting bands is my calling, but it is certainly a fun way to work, and with every shoot I am getting more articulate and comfortable with art direction and in visioning how the final product will actually turn out.