Climbing Photography Clinic Day at Devils Lake.

Andy Hansen on "Breakfast of Champions" 5.9+

After two days of discussion, preparation, and practice in the gym the Climbing Photography Clinic participants Peter and Giulia where ready to get the full experience of shooting climbers outside. So for the third and final day of the clinic we set out to the west bluff of Devils Lake to shoot the classic routes on The Lost Face, as well as "Son of Great Chimney" and "Stuck Knee". Conveniently the routes are near each other, but offer distinctively different challenges and approaches when it comes to photographing them. So we woke up early, packed gear, and hiked the approach. Soon after anchors were set a plan was hatched to shoot Andy and Josh on the Lost Face overhangs. Both photographers rigged up a line to shoot from and the decision was made to break up the 90 foot route into two pitches for a greater opportunity to get some really unique photos.

Overhead view of the clinic photographers and climbers on the Lost Face.
Yes, I can levitate...

Peter Beck shoots Andy Hansen and Josh Knapp pitching out the Lost Face overhangs.

Giulia Bartolotta gets rigged up to shoot the Lost Face.

The lighting this morning offered some common photographic challenges. Although it was still early in the day, the sun was high and there were little clouds in the sky to diffuse the light. The photographers dealt with the challenge of metering and selecting the best exposure to shoot the bright rock. As time passed the light became a little more diffused by some thin clouds appeared overhead. The lighting became more even and the shooters and climbers rejoiced. Soon after we gathered our things and moved over to shoot "Stuck Knee" and "Son of Great Chimney". We started with the off-width "Stuck Knee" which is an especially unique climb because it can be shot from both sides. Peter set up to shoot the climber directly, and Giulia set up the shoot the climber looking through the big off-width crack. The big gear required, difficulty of off-width climbing, and ability to shoot multiple angles made this climb a great choice for photos.

Peter Beck shooting Ryan Strong on "Stuck Knee" 5.7

Giulia Bartolotta shooting Ryan through the offwidth crack on "Stuck Knee" 5.7

We wrapped up the day by moving down to shoot "Son of Great Chimney" a classic Devils Lake 5.11c that offers many aesthetic photographic angles. Peter rigged a line to shoot from around the corner, and Giulia shot from the top of an adjacent pillar. The group worked on the different challenges of shooting several climbers on top rope instead of on the sharp end lead climbing. Peter also worked to refine his use of an aid climbing hook to use as a directional while shooting. Guilia enjoyed the comforts of shooting a quality angle from the comfort of a huge ledge.

Peter Beck lowers in to shoot the classic "Son of Great Chimney"

Peter Beck works on getting a hook placement for a directional.
Does it hold?

So with the third day of the Climbing Photo Clinic wrapping up we were all excited to go back to our computers and take a look at all the new images and compare results. I am yet to see many of the groups shots on a full screen, but I am excited to see how the class used what they've learned from the clinic and to see the final results. I would like to put together a small show/exhibit of the work from the clinic to be hung in the gym so the work can be viewed in print by all. Until then I'll do my best to keep everyone updated and share some links when/if Peter and Giulia post their photos online.

For all of those who wished they could have signed up or had scheduling conflicts for the first photography clinic I would like to put on another clinic in the Fall. There are no determined dates and it all depends on your interest! So please keep let me know if you're interested in signing up or have any questions about future clinics. Thanks to Peter and Giulia for making this clinic a blast, and I hope to see you guys out there shooting!

Matt Kuehl Presents: Climbing Photography Clinic

I am excited to announce the dates of my first educational brain child... a climbing photography clinic! This three-day clinic is designed to transform your climbing photography from butt-shot to cover shot. Geared towards climbers with an interest in photography and the desire to develop the skills and techniques required to capture better shots in the vertical world. This course will begin with the fundamentals of photography, ascending, and rope access inside Adventure Rock and will progress to intermediate and advanced shooting and rigging techniques working outdoors at Devil’s Lake. Participants are required to have their own DSLR, harness, and personal anchor system to attend the clinic. Upon completion of the clinic participants photos will be printed and displayed in Adventure Rock.

Clinic Overview

Day One: Wednesday June 15th 5:30pm-9:30pm

Photography fundamentals are explored. Content includes camera functions, exposure, metering, focus, depth of field, focal length, lighting and digital workflow. Rope access fundamentals will also are explored. Topics include ascending single and double ropes, rappelling with the use of a backup device, and specific positioning on the wall for shooting photos.

Day Two: Wednesday June 22nd 5:30pm-9:30pm

Get ready for an intense and exciting day getting practice shooting while hanging and ascending. Rope access and shooting exercises explored. Gain experience setting up your camera and rope(s) for three separate shooting environments in the gym. Practice ascending with several different set ups and photograph climbers while working together in a team to get the best possible shots. Advanced positioning topics explored such as the use of multiple directional lines, setting up a bosman's chair while hanging, and fighting the spins on overhanging terrain.

Day Three: Sunday June 26th at Devil’s Lake 8am-4pm

Gain the full experience of being a climbing photographer by hiking in, hauling gear, finding the light, dealing with elements and rigging your line. Apply previously learned techniques to make informed decisions on how to deal with the challenges of photographing several different climbs unique to the Devil's Lake environment. Set up anchors (with guidance) and embrace the outdoor specific challenges and topics that will be explored. Climb, ascend, photograph and enjoy the great outdoors on this capstone day.

You can sign up for this clinic at the front desk at Adventure Rock, or give the gym a call at 262.790.6800. There is a limit of 9 participants for so sign up before all the spots are filled!

Devils Lake Boulder and Photo Session

Frost on the windshield on the beloved craggin' wagon.

Tony Brengosz and I took an early morning drive to Devils Lake to spend the day bouldering and soaking up what's left of the fall temperatures here in Wisconsin. When I left my house the thermometer displayed 25° F, but once we arrived the temps had increased slightly and the sun was out to keep us relatively warm all day. We drove to the North Shore parking lot and after only a ten minute hike we were getting our shoes on for a warm up climb. We first went to an area called "Greatest Bluff" which was home to a handful of fun sandstone boulder problems in the area ranging from V0-V9. We started by warming up on an unnamed arete problem rated V0 and then quickly moved on the "Gay Gigolo" V2.

Arete V0

The crux move on "Gay Gigolo" V2.

The sandstone here was pretty textured and had a lot of neat features which were fun to climb on. This was my first experience bouldering on sandstone at the lake, but I felt slightly prepared being pretty familiar with the classic trad climbing here at "Old Sandstone." Tony has a lot more experience bouldering around these parts than I do, and today he acted as a guild of sorts to show me some of the more aesthetic boulder problems at the park. Today would not only mark my first time bouldering at the lake, but also the first time shooting climbing with the 5D mark II. Like every photoshoot there was a lot of experimenting and trial and error, but funny enough the biggest crux of the new camera was turning off the two second self timer that accidently got turned on... always bring the manual!

Tony B. on "Slippery Seam" V4

After checking out a few other areas near by we took a walk over to the Monolith area, which is home to some taller more intimidating lines. My personal favorite of the day (to photograph) was "Sex and Chocolate" v6. This line featured a seemingly featureless arete that went up to a slopey ledge to a difficult looking topout, in other words it looked totally awesome! I really wanted to get the right angle to shoot this problem. I wanted to showcase the arete and avoid making it look like a face climb while also illustrating the overall height and commitment it looked like it needed to be completed. I looked around for options, and after a little bit of effort I ended up with a unique vantage point while being nestled precariously in a bendy tree. My personal favorite shot of the day...

"Sex and Chocolate" V6

From this vantage point I was also able to capture a video of Tony getting a repeat send of this problem. I'm still becoming familiar with the finer workings of the video capability on the 5D mark II, but look forward to gathering some footage and making short videos here and there to keep the blog new and exciting. Beyond documenting the repeat send here, I was also able to film the send of "Slope of Dadaism" V3 and "Pillar of Contemporary Movement" V4... Nice work Tony! Anyone have any recommendations for video editing software?

Tony comes off "Pillar of Contemporary Movement" V4

A stellar day at the lake once again, and even though I was bouldering I still managed to end up hang dogging in my harness. Much thanks to Tony B. for agreeing to be photographed instead of being spotted by me for most of the day, and a big high-five to the Wisconsin weather for letting us get out and shoot some more rock climbing before the season finally turns and the water freezes in anticipation of being climbed.